is glycolic acid good for acne?

The major advantage of glycolic acid is that it does more than treat breakouts. The ingredient can also tackle hyperpigmentation, dullness, and signs of skin aging, such as lines and wrinkles, without breaking a sweat. But don't just take my word for it. Here's a breakdown of the most common questions about glycolic acid and what exactly makes it such a great ingredient.

Glycolic acid is a type of alpha-hydroxy acid (or AHA) that's derived from sugar cane. It joins other acids you might recognize, such as lactic acid (derived from sour milk and purportedly a favorite of Cleopatra's), tartaric acid (from grapes), and citric acid—which, you might guess, comes from citrus fruits.

But it's unique. “Of the AHAs, glycolic is the simplest in structure and the smallest; it has the lowest molecular weight,” says Kenneth Howe, M.D., a dermatologist at Union Derm in New York City. That small molecular weight means “it's easy for it to penetrate your skin and be super effective,” says Alix Shapiro, skin therapist at Heyday in NYC.

When it comes to glycolic acid benefits, the list is long. First and foremost, glycolic acid is an exfoliant. It helps shed dead skin cells and reveal the newer, brighter layers underneath by acting on the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin). “Normal, intact stratum corneum consists of tightly packed layers of dead skin cells that are tightly bonded together,” says Dr. Howe. "Glycolic acid loosens these bonds.” With their glue dissolved by glycolic acid, those tough, rough layers of dead skin cells can more easily slough away.

But because glycolic acid is so small, it can get deeper into your skin too, where it does some serious work. “Glycolic acid stimulates fibroblasts in the dermis to produce increased amounts of collagen,” says Dr. Howe. And by stimulating collagen production, it helps skin feel firmer and minimizes fine lines and wrinkles. Between the superficial action on your stratum corneum and the work it does below, “your skin will feel smoother and look more radiant and even-toned,” Shapiro says.

As with any exfoliant, it's best to start small if you have sensitive skin or are prone to irritation. For this, Shapiro recommends using it in a face wash. “A glycolic cleanser can get your skin used to it, rather than diving straight into a leave-on glycolic product if you are unsure whether your skin can tolerate it,” she says. Try one that pairs glycolic with hydrating ingredients, like Glow Recipe's Blueberry Bounce Gentle Cleanser, which includes hyaluronic acid.

Research suggests that glycolic acid may help with the following:

Older research from 1999 examined the effect of a peel containing 70% glycolic acid on 80 females with acne. The research found that it quickly improved all types of acne, particularly comedonal acne, which occurs when pores become clogged with oil and dead skin cells.

It is of note, however, that this strength of glycolic acid is only available as a chemical peel. Over-the-counter (OTC) glycolic acid products are not this strong.

Exposure to UV light can cause skin damage. The visible signs of this include:

Health experts refer to this as photoaging.

A 2020 study notes that glycolic acid is an effective treatment for sun damage in the skin. A 2018 paper also reports that glycolic acid has a protective effect against UVB rays, meaning it may help prevent photoaging.

Over time, the skin loses its plumpness and elasticity. As a result, fine lines and wrinkles can form. This is a natural process and not necessarily something a person needs to treat. However, for those who choose to, glycolic acid may help.

According to a 2020 study, glycolic acid:

Warts are small, hard growths on the skin that occur due to viruses.

Research suggests that glycolic acid may help with the following:

Older research from 1999 examined the effect of a peel containing 70% glycolic acid on 80 females with acne. The research found that it quickly improved all types of acne, particularly comedonal acne, which occurs when pores become clogged with oil and dead skin cells.

It is of note, however, that this strength of glycolic acid is only available as a chemical peel. Over-the-counter (OTC) glycolic acid products are not this strong.

Exposure to UV light can cause skin damage. The visible signs of this include:

Health experts refer to this as photoaging.

A 2020 study notes that glycolic acid is an effective treatment for sun damage in the skin. A 2018 paper also reports that glycolic acid has a protective effect against UVB rays, meaning it may help prevent photoaging.

Over time, the skin loses its plumpness and elasticity. As a result, fine lines and wrinkles can form. This is a natural process and not necessarily something a person needs to treat. However, for those who choose to, glycolic acid may help.

According to a 2020 study, glycolic acid:

Warts are small, hard growths on the skin that occur due to viruses.

An older 2011 study tested the effectiveness of a 15% glycolic acid treatment in 31 HIV-positive children with warts. The results indicate that the treatment helped flatten and normalize the color of the warts, but it only completely cleared them in 10% of the participants.

Other research from 2011 evaluated the effectiveness of a gel containing 15% glycolic acid and 2% salicylic acid in 20 people with warts. The research found that the gel worked very well.

Did you know that glycolic acid has several skin renewing benefits and can work in conjuction with your other skin care products?

We'll explain the skin benefits of glycolic acid, and why it's a great ingredient for reducing acne scars, and acne.

Glycolic acid is a well-known AHA and chemical exfoliant.  Glycolic acid can combat active acne breakouts and reduce acne scarring - mainly when it is in the form of hyperpigmentation or discoloration.

Professional treatments with high concentration glycolic acid may reduce atrophic acne scars too which are the indented acne scars.

Glycolic acid is known for its exfoliating ability to loosen the 'glue' that holds the skin’s cells together.  This allows for the uppermost layer of skin to shed faster, leading to a brighter, more even toned skin underneath.

According to Loretta Ciraldo, a board certified dermatologist,  glycolic acid has been known to be the most popular and widely studied type of alpha hydroxy acid. It is derived from sugar cane and belongs to the alpha hydroxy acid family, along with lactic and malic acids. This type of acid can easily penetrate into the skin due to the very small sized molecule.

Because glycolic acid molecules are so small, it makes it an ideal ingredient to penetrate deep inside the pores of skin to break down excess sebum.

Glycolic acid works by exfoliating skin, by shedding the uppermost layer of skin, fresh new skin can be pushed to the skin surface faster.  This reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation, and fine lines.

Glycolic acid also has anti inflammatory properties due to its ability to inhibit p. acnes bacteria on the skin.  This makes glycolic acid ideal for acne prone skin.

Glycolic acid has also been shown to be able to stimulate collagen production in skin when adjusted to a pH of 4.  This leads to smoother appearing skin that can help with acne scars.

Glycolic acid can usually be found in products formulated for weekly use, but more gentle daily use concentrations can be found too.

Glycolic acid can also be supportive of the skin barrier too!  It causes the skin to create more glycosaminoglycans which bind water to the skin.  A healthy skin barrier can help reduce acne breakouts.

High strength glycolic acid peels can also reduce atrophic acne scarring.

Here’s how you can use glycolic acid in your skincare routine!

Glycolic acid can be used as long as the skin can tolerate it, and most people are able to tolerate glycolic acid, but be careful of some side effects and limitation.

The higher the concentration of glycolic acid, the more irritation it can potentially cause.

Main side effects can include: redness, burning, itching and irritation.

When using glycolic acid, make sure to use sunscreen daily during the day since it can cause sun sensitivity.

Those with pigmented skin could have a reaction where there is an increase in hyperpigmentation when using high strength peels, so it's best to consult with a dermatologist who understands and treats pigmented skin.

Those with very sensitive skin or with rosacea may find glycolic acid to be too irritating, however they may tolerate a low concentration of it.

Overall, glycolic acid is a safe and super star ingredient when used in OTC ( Over the counter ) skincare!

---

Sources

Chemical Peels for Acne and Acne Scars In Asians: Evidence Based Review: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3560163/

Glycolic acid isn’t the only acid in town. There are several other AHAs and natural acids that manufacturers use in their products. Here’s a look at them.

Hyaluronic acid is what doctors call a humectant. This acid attracts water to the outermost layers of skin to help them look and feel more hydrated.

This acid isn’t an exfoliator like glycolic acid is. Instead, it’s used to improve skin softness.

Lactic acid is a natural AHA made from acids that milk produces when it sours. This acid works similarly to glycolic acid, because it promotes exfoliation by dissolving bonds with dead skin cells.

Lactic acid’s molecules aren’t as small as glycolic acid. Therefore, it may not penetrate the skin as well as glycolic acid.

However, lactic acid is typically less irritating to the skin than glycolic acid, according to research. If you have more sensitive skin, lactic acid may be the exfoliant for you.

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that cosmetic manufacturers harvest from tree bark.

The difference between BHAs and AHAs is oil and water.

AHAs are water-soluble, so water can neutralize them if you experience burning or discomfort when applied. BHAs are oil-soluble. As a result, they can penetrate into an oil-filled pore to reduce buildup.

Salicylic acid is especially effective on very oily skin and when you have blackheads in addition to acne pimples. Both glycolic and salicylic acid can be effective acne fighters.

While there are lots of acids and active ingredients (such as retinol) available to improve skin cell turnover, it’s important not to use them in excess. They have the potential to dry out your skin.

While salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide may be the two most recognized acne-fighting ingredients, glycolic acid products rank right beside them in importance. It's a super-exfoliator that gets rid of dead skin cells so they can't clog your pores.