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The factory stereo systems in many of today's vehicles include an external amplifier. This factory amp is designed to make cheap factory speakers sound better. But it doesn't do you any favors when you replace the stereo or those stock speakers.

While planning an article about a car audio installation, we came across an unexpected opportunity to showcase a question that our Advisors answer regularly here at Crutchfield:

In many cases, we'll have wiring solutions for a vehicle that either work with the factory amp or let you bypass the amp. Which way is better? We decided to compare both options and hear for ourselves.

Dave, one of Crutchfield's editors, wanted to replace the factory sound system in his family's 2002 Toyota Highlander. A couple of us on the car writing team got together, researched Dave's vehicle, and recommended the JVC KW-R925BTS CD receiver and JVC speakers to meet his requirements for the new setup.

We noticed that the stock system in Dave's Highlander included a factory amplifier, and Crutchfield offers ways to either integrate or bypass the factory amp in this Toyota. We decided to use this opportunity to test our theory that it's always better to bypass the factory amp. We connected Dave's new stereo both ways to see what really sounded the best.

Dave changed out the speakers before installing the new stereo so they'd be ready for the test. The right pry tools and comprehensive Crutchfield MasterSheet™ instructions led him through the procedure, and once he had the first door speaker done, the others went smoothly.

Dave replaced the front speakers with JVC CS-DR1700C 6-3/4" component speakers up front, using a universal backstrap to make a bracket for each tweeter. JVC CD-SR1720 6-3/4" 2-way speakers mounted directly into the factory brackets in the rear doors.

To install the JVC radio, Dave began by securing the Toyota-specific kit that Crutchfield offers to the radio chassis. He also ran his Bluetooth® microphone cable from the cavity to the dashboard. Once the radio was secured with a few screws, it was time to move on to the wiring.

Dave thought that wiring to the existing factory amp in his Highlander would be fine, since it still worked. The installation would've been a little easier, since he wouldn't have to run any cables to the amp location. Retaining the factory amp meant he could connect the new stereo to the plug in the dash cavity, where the old radio had been plugged in.

Here's where we chimed in, explaining that Dave could expect better sound by bypassing that factory amp and directly feeding the JVC receiver's power to his new speakers. Keeping the factory amp in play would negate many sound attributes his new stereo offers.

We had easy access to the wiring harness that connected to the factory amp in Dave's Highlander. So we helped him wire the radio in a way that safely let us switch between the amp integration and bypass setups to compare the sound.

To put things in perspective, Dave works primarily on the home audio side of our business, so he's been exposed to some of the best sounding home audio systems out there. Here are his thoughts on the two methods of connecting his new car stereo:

"At first, I thought I wanted to use the factory amp for more power and better sound. It also looked like an easier installation, since I didn't have to get to the amp. With the amp integration harness, the sound was better than what I was used to. It had a lot more detail than the factory radio and speakers did."

So, he heard some improvement in the sound when he kept the factory amplifier in the system. Even going with the easier installation, his music would benefit. But then we moved on to the second part of the experiment:

"There's that missing bass... Bypass it is!"

"However, when the bypass was connected, I exclaimed 'Ah, there's the missing bass!' Bypassing the factory amp returned the low end that had been missing on the first go-round. The middle and high frequencies were also much more natural without losing the detail. It was a huge difference. Bypass it is!"

It's not just about the power. The factory amp can also include a filter or crossover network for specific frequencies that may not sound optimal with a new system. By bypassing the factory amplifier and feeding the JVC receiver's power directly to the speakers, Dave also bypassed any filters in the factory amp, sending a pure, full-range signal to the speakers.

Occasionally, we may not have a specific bypass harness available for a vehicle. But if you don't mind splicing some wires, you can use a speaker-wire bundle, like the Crutchfield CSW9W-20 9-wire speaker cable, to reach the output section of your factory amp.

Once Dave decided to stick with the improved sound from the bypass adapter, he had to route the adapter's wiring to the factory amp, which is located under the rear seat in the Highlander. He found this wasn't as hard as he initially thought.

He fished this wiring bundle from the radio cavity, under the glovebox, and behind the kick panel trim on the passenger's side of his vehicle. Dave removed some of the door threshold trim, which revealed very handy channels that accommodated his wiring nicely. He neatly hid all the wires under the trim and plugged this bundle into the connector that plugged into the factory amp.

Dave did a final sound check, making sure everything was working properly before replacing all the trim pieces. The new stereo system makes his family driving duties much more fun. By bypassing the factory amplifier, the music sounds more detailed and clear than it did when he used the amplifier integration harness. Whenever there's one available, we recommend bypassing the factory amp to get better sound.

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4. House Address: 2-B/110 Excellency, 4th Cross Road, Lokhandwala Complex, Andheri, Mumbai, Maharashtra, India.

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