Taika Delano

British Vogue enlisted the help of general medicine consultant and expert aesthetic physician, Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, to explain what skin purging is, how to distinguish it from an ordinary breakout, and how to deal with it.

“Skin purging occurs when a product or process speeds up the skin’s cell turnover, leading to tiny open or closed comedones that usually manifest as white heads on the skin.”

“Skin purging is not a name you will see in the scientific journals, but it is well recognised in clinical practice. You will usually see terms like ‘inflammatory lesions’, or ‘inflammatory acne’, associated with ingredients which increase the skin turnover. Ingredients like retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, PHA, chemical peels and even lasers can prompt skin to purge.”

“It can last from four days to six weeks, but on average, you can expect it to occur for around two weeks.”

“Purging is neither good nor bad. It can happen after using excellent products but, equally, it also frequently occurs when the skin barrier is compromised prior to starting with a product or treatment. The risk of purging can be reduced if you first repair the barrier function, then slowly start the treatment or introduce the product.”

Read more: 20 Of The Best Retinol Creams & Serums For Every Skin Type

“Breakouts and skin purging are a continuum of each other. With breakouts there is initially a clogged pore which gets inflamed, leading to open or closed comedones. With purging, this process is accelerated and there is usually a precipitant such as a new product or treatment. If you keep going with the product or treatment, you can expect your skin to get better.”

“If the skin barrier is compromised when you see purging then start ingredients which help with barrier repair, such as ceramides and hyaluronic acid in a non-comedogenic formulation. If you are using a treatment or product continue with a slower approach.”

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