Strother Emmerichs
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Durban is located on the east coast of South Africa in the province of KwaZulu-Natal and in the municipality of eThekwini. It is the third-largest city in South Africa and the busiest port in Africa.
Durban was originally called Port Natal and was founded by British settlers. Indian workers were brought in to work the sugar cane plantations, making this one of the largest population centers of Indians in the world, outside of India. Zulu and English are the most common languages in Durban.
Durban International Airport (formerly Louis Botha Airport) is now closed. The King Shaka International Airport , at La Mercy 40km north of Durban has been completed and is fully operational.
Taxi fares from the new airport to the hotels on the Marine Parade and center of Durban can cost well over R400 ZAR (~US $53). However, next to the taxi rank, there is an airport shuttle bus service that leaves every hour on the hour (or as soon as the bus has several passengers) for R80 ($ 10.50) per person, though it may take longer to reach your hotel. Beware, the taxi drivers can be quite aggressive and will try to intercept you before you reach the shuttle. Please also check that your belongings have not been tampered with if you do take the taxi. You can also use ride-hailing applications like Uber or Taxify.
The following airlines offer domestic service to/from Durban: Airlink , British Airways , FlySafair , Kulula , Mango , and South African Airlines
The following airlines offer international service to/from Durban: Airlink (to/from Maputo), Air Mauritius (to/from Mauritius), Emirates (to/from Dubai), Ethiopian Airlines (to/from Addis Ababa), ProFlight Zambia (to/from Lusaka), Qatar Airways (to/from Doha), and Turkish Airlines (to/from Istanbul)
See also Discount airlines in Africa.
The central train station is in the city center.
Spoornet operates inter-city trains to Johannesburg and Pietermaritzburg. There is no longer a direct service to Cape Town. A change at Johannesburg is required for other long-haul destinations.
MetroRail operates frequent commuter trains to various suburbs of Durban and towns nearby (such as Pinetown and the resort towns of both the south coast (eg. Kelso and Park Ryne) and the north coast). Reports indicate that Metro trains in Greater Durban can be unsafe, particularly at night.
All national carriers offer regular services to Durban. Baz Bus is no longer operational due to Covid. Intercape bus company charges exorbitant prices close to what you pay for a flight (e.g. Port Elizabeth to Durban 900 Rand by bus or 1100 Rand by plane).
From eSwatini, minibuses depart when full from the eastern flank of the Manzini taxi rank (SZL350, 6h30, Oct 2022). As an estimate, the first minibus leaves around 08:20 and the last around 13:00.
Some cruise ships dock in Durban, but generally, there are limited "one-way" entries by boat to Durban. In theory passage on a freighter might be arranged, but it's not widely advertised. Cruises from Durban are available on the MSC Sinfonia .
The best way to get around Durban is by car. Be sure to check that you have the latest updated street maps and/or GPS devices as a number of street names have changed in recent months. It also helps to have a list of old and new names as some of the new names are vandalized.
Durban is attempting to upgrade its public bus system in time for the world cup; however, problems with the union sometimes make buses unreliable.
Durban People Mover buses feature CCTV cameras and wheelchair-friendly ramps. They run from 6AM until 11PM every 15 minutes. These buses stop in the CBD, the Victoria Street Market, the Workshop, Suncoast Casino, Ushaka Marine World, and along the beach route. (R4 per trip, valid for 1 hour on a hop-on, hop-off basis; R10 for a full day pass on a hop-on, hop-off basis).
To travel between the Berea suburbs and the city it is cheaper to travel by Mynah buses, R2.40 off-peak (8AM 3:30PM), peak R3.80. The Mynah buses depart from the Workshop terminus every 30 minutes to Musgrave, The Ridge, Kensington, Mitchell Park/Florida road, Tollgate(cnr Aliwal/Smith streets), To South Beach/Ushaka, North Beach/Suncoast (in Pixley ka Seme {west} street, opposite the City Hall).
The Aqualine buses to the suburbs (depart from the Pine street terminus ) are usually within 5 minutes of the schedule every hour. Peak cash fare can be quite steep. If you're traveling daily by bus to work, it is advisable to buy a weekly coupon, which can save you up to 35% of the cash fare. Fare, bus route & timetable inquiries (+27 31 309-5942/3). Please note that due to the ongoing dispute some routes have been suspended. *= service suspended.
Most buses depart on the hour every hour, check the bus schedule. Please note that sometimes to get to your destination, you might have to catch a couple to three buses. When not sure about the bus route number, ask the locals or the bus driver (tell him the nearest landmark to your destination). Mynah buses do not have route numbers, only the destination will be displayed on the electronic display in front of the bus. Please note that u must flag the bus down to stop at the bus stop. It is advisable to have the exact change before you board the bus and get a receipt!
Registered taxis are common, generally safe and relatively inexpensive. Taxis do not rove and hence need to be called so that one can be fetched from your pick up point. A lot of these will conduct point to point transfers, airport shuttles, and corporate transfers. The ones that can be recommended for the Durban and surrounds are:
There are also group taxis, referred to as "combi taxis" (or "minibus taxis"), that is impossible to miss as (in Durban) they're brightly decorated and always have music pumping. There is always someone hanging out of a window making the hand gestures that indicate whether there are seats available and where the combi is going. Minibus taxis are very common and less expensive than metered taxis. Strictly speaking, they are minibusses that take people to and from work, they stick to set routes and they are generally not suitable for tourists unfamiliar with the area they are going to; when in doubt stick to metered taxis or buses. There are minibus taxis plying same routes as Mynah buses, they are more frequent and faster than buses.
Minibus taxis also provide longer-distance services. Most leave from recognized ranks around the Umgeni Road. Services to Swaziland leave from the uncovered rank across the street from 22 Umgeni Road, not far from Durban train station. There is a building opposite the rank, emblazoned with this address in huge letters. Be advised that this area has a reasonably high-risk rating for street crime, so be on your guard. If traveling to this rank by local minibus, ask for YMCA. The Swaziland combis tend to depart in the mornings and leave when full. 09:00AM seems to be a good time to arrive at the rank. Currently (Dec 2013), the fare from Durban to Manzini is 220SAR.
Rickshaw rides are offered to tourists along the beachfront, for amusement rather than getting around. Watch out for the many ups and downs in the ride; the tipping back of the rickshaw causes the contents of your pockets to fall out, into the coffers of the drivers!
Popular items to buy are Zulu beadwork, wirework, wickerwork - from baskets and sustainable conference bags to fantastic lights and furniture, Spices - anyone dares 'mother-in-law's revenge? Fantastic!
As Durban has one of the largest Indian populations outside of India itself, a Durban curry is a popular dish and can range from mild to very hot. There is also the Bunny Chow which is unique to the city, a quarter loaf of bread hollowed out and filled with a curry of your choice. Head over to the Blue Lagoon area (the mouth of the Umgeni River) to join the locals for a "chow". Hollywood Bunny Bar, located in a strip mall in Springfield Park, offers some of Durban's best bunnies - dig in with the lunchtime crowd.
Try the Roma Revolving Restaurant at the top of John Ross House on the Esplanade for average Italian food and the absolute best view of Durban.
The Golden Mile has several tasty options. Stop in at the bright yellow Afros for a peri-peri chicken burger and eat it watching the waves.
Wilson's Wharf, a long pier built into the harbor, hosts a wide selection of international restaurants where you can relax and watch the busiest harbor in Africa's activity.
Trendy Florida Road offers a melting pot of options for dining, from upmarket steak houses (Butcher Boys) to family Italian cafes (Lupa). Try Republik for great build-your-own burgers, Jack Salmon for fantastic fresh fish, Sunrise House of Curries for an authentic Durban curry, or hit one of the chains - Rocomamas (burgers -note, no alcohol served), Cubana or Capellos. There are several bars and pubs (Time Square, The Charlatan, Dropkick Murphys). Make sure to peep down the alleys for hidden courtyards housing street food trucks and small eateries, including another of the famous Afros.
Definitely try some 'biltong' when you're in South Africa. It's South African-style jerky, and available in a whole range of flavors and textures including game meat such as kudu or ostrich.
Zacks, located at Wilson's Wharf on Victoria's embankment, is a popular place to get thirst-quenching drinks and just relax and enjoy the view of the harbor. Joe Kool's, on the beachfront, is also well known as the best place for a "sundowner" after a long day on the beach. Check out their roof-top deck for the best views. The BAT Centre, on the port, is also a good place for a quick meal or drink. There's free jazz most nights as well as other concerts, hip-hop and the occasional poetry slam.
Florida Road in Morningide is jam-packed with bars and pubs, as is Davenport Road in the suburb of Glenwood.
Chartwell Drive in Umhlanga is also home to several bars and pubs - catch an Uber or taxi if staying in town, as drinking and driving is a serious offense.
The beach strip is frequently patrolled by policemen, there are CCTV cameras and many lights at night. As everywhere else, there are several basic safety rules to follow. Avoid dark, deserted areas, and do not go out alone in the early hours of the morning. The promenade along the beach is safe to walk, but do not venture to the side and back roads of the hotels.
At night, it is still a good idea to stick to the main streets and not go out at night unless you are very familiar with a particular area. Avoid the usually busy central business district, which is empty after dark. Above all, use common sense.
Remember, you're a tourist, not a celebrity. Dress down to blend in with the people in the CBD (keep the fancy stuff to a minimum).
The harbor area is quite safe, as are the shopping malls and higher residential areas.
The Point, the area between downtown and the port, is known for prostitution and cheap hotels have a higher crime rate (although parts are currently undergoing a massive redevelopment). Avoid walking here alone or at night and take cars or metered taxis if you need to go to this area.
Street children can be a problem, and it's best to keep clear of them. Many sniff glue, carry knives and act quite unpredictably.
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