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It may surprise you to learn that frogs are fairly cheap but their enclosure setup can get expensive.

Frogs are delicate and require a habitat they’re adapted to. A tropical tree frog, as an example, needs a tropical climate. Heating elements, misting systems, lights, and other equipment may be required to create a habitat suitable for your pet.

Naturally, a sophisticated enclosure with all the bells and whistles costs more than a simple enclosure. Moreover, all frogs are different and some are cheaper than others. Here are two examples:

You can see in the two examples above, the cost ranges drastically depending on the species. Each of these examples can be made slightly cheaper or more expensive. They’re somewhere in the middle and don’t include diet supplements or crickets.

The cost of “designer” frogs is more expensive. Some species have different morphs (varying colors and patterns). Rare morphs demand a higher price. For example, you can buy a basic Pacman Frog from $20 to $40 but rare morphs of a Pacman Frog can reach up to $300 USD or more.

What might surprise you about keeping frogs as pets is the initial cost of the equipment. The cost of the equipment easily outweighs the cost of the frog, in most cases.

It’s difficult to give you an exact number of what you’ll spend because each species requires different equipment.

For example, keeping an American Toad in a moderately-sized aquarium is much cheaper than keeping a tropical tree frog in a medium-sized glass terrarium. The toad won’t require supplemental heating and you can squeak by with spray bottles for misting, etc. A tropical tree frog will likely need a heating element and perhaps a more complex humidifier (fogger or misting system).

In my Pacman Frog tank setup guide, you can see the process of making the habitat and see the items I used.

So, check out this list and continue reading afterward for my recommendations.

Okay, if this is your first time buying a pet frog, here is what I recommend: Research the type of frog you want. Learn what type of environment your frog needs so you can determine which pieces of equipment you need.

Pay careful attention to the temperature and humidity requirements of your frog or toad. This will determine if you need a heating element. Humidity can be adjusted by using a spray bottle or, if you prefer, with an automated fogging or misting system.

You can buy a cheap aquarium and lid for under $50. Front-opening glass terrariums are more expensive. The style of enclosure depends on the locomotion (movement) of your pet.

Aquariums cost less than terrariums but they don’t have as much ventilation and they’re more difficult to clean. Extra ventilation can be beneficial but not always. The best thing about front-opening terrariums, in my opinion, is the ability to easily access the inside of the enclosure for feeding and cleaning.

The two primary heating elements used in the hobby are Under Tank Heaters (UTH) and Heat Lamps/Bulbs. Under-tank heaters have varying sizes, most of which are labeled; 10-15 gallons, 20 gallons, 30 gallons, etc. The bigger the heating pad, the more it costs. They range from $15 to $40 dollars.

Heat bulbs vary in price and intensity as well. There are traditional bulbs and “ceramic heat emitters”. The ceramic bulbs output heat only – no light. You will also need a “dome” or light fixture for a bulb. A dome is a fixture with a light socket.

A heat bulb can range from $10 – $20 dollars and, just like the UTH, there are different wattages. Some bulbs output more heat than others. Should you go this route, remember to purchase a dome as well. They cost between $15 to $30.

Some light fixtures/domes come with multiple sockets for multiple bulbs. For example, you can put a heat bulb on one side and a grow light on the other.

Heating elements should always be paired with a thermostat. A thermostat is a device that controls the heating element. You can set the thermostat to turn on when the temperature is too low and turn off when the temperature is too high.

You can go as crazy as you want here but, at a minimum, I recommend purchasing at least two “hides”. Hides are anything your frog can hide in. It could be an appropriately-sized cork-bark tube, plants (real or fake), or decoration.

Common Accessories:

Individual accessories range in price between $5 – $25, depending on what you get.

Providing lighting for amphibians and reptiles is important. The reason lighting is important is because it creates a day and night cycle for your pet(s), which is crucial for their overall well-being.

Lighting is a complex topic. Live plants need special lighting to grow and UVB can be good or bad, depending on how it’s used and the species you’re keeping. I won’t dive into this topic here.

Check out this post about Pacman Frogs and UVB for an introduction to the topic.

You can get a nice LED bulb for $10 – $15. Of course, you need a light fixture to use it and that will cost you another $15 – $30. Many people, myself included, opt for using a “hood” lighting fixture. It’s a light fixture with LED or fluorescent bulbs that sit atop the enclosure. They cost between $50 – $100.

Proper amphibian husbandry involves keeping your frog’s enclosure within the desired humidity range. The cheapest, most simple way of doing this is by misting the enclosure with a spray bottle.

Depending on your setup and the pet’s requirements, you may need to do this once or multiple times per day.

You can, however, invest in an automated misting or fogging system. These systems can be set to turn on/off at specific times of the day. This ensures your frog is comfortable while you’re not there. A decent fogging system costs between $50 – $80 while misting systems can run between $50 – $300.

Otherwise, buy a spray bottle for $5 – $10 and keep an eye on the thermometer/hygrometer reader.

Frogs are mostly carnivores. They need live insects and you can’t simply catch crickets and worms from your garden. The only time this is acceptable is if you’re keeping a species native to the area.

Most pet stores carry a supply of crickets, mealworms, wax worms, and sometimes fruit flies and dubia roaches. They range in price depending on your location and their availability. Crickets in my area cost between $0.06 – $0.15 each.

The upkeep for amphibians is relatively easy. Spot cleaning once or twice per week and a deep clean every few months will suffice. As far as your electricity bill is concerned, it depends on what you’re using.

Most equipment is efficient and won’t raise your bill drastically. You likely won’t notice a change in your bill with an entry-level setup for a single enclosure.

Having several enclosures on a reptile rack with lighting, misting systems, and several heating elements will certainly increase your power usage and this will be reflected in your electric bill.

Keeping frogs and toads as pets is a fun hobby but the initial setup cost can be expensive. Most of the popular species range in price from $20 to $50 per frog. Rare morphs are more expensive; they can reach up to $300 or more.

The most expensive part of keeping frogs is the initial setup cost: the tank, heating element, thermostat, misting or fogging systems, lighting, substrate (soil), plants, and decorations.

In the opening paragraphs, I gave two examples of how much it would cost for a single Pacman Frog or three Red-Eyed Trees Frogs. The Pacman Frog setup (1 frog included) totaled around $225 USD while the Red-Eyed Tree Frog setup (3 frogs included) totaled around $445 USD. Both examples can be made slightly cheaper or more expensive.

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What is FDDI? FDDI is the abbreviation of the Fiber Distributed Data Interface. It is a set of ANSI and ISO standards for transmitting data in a local area network (LAN) through fiber optic cables. It is suitable for large LANs with a diameter of up to 200 kilometers. You can continue to read this post from MiniTool to get more detailed information about FDDI.

Also see: How to Enable Wake-on-LAN in Windows 10

The following are some features of FDDI.

The fields of an FDDI frame are as follows:

Besides, there are some FDDI standards. You can take reference.

Now, let’s see how Fiber Distributed Data Interface works. FDDI is usually implemented as a dual-token transferring in a ring topology (for campus networks) or a star topology (inside buildings). The double ring is composed of the main ring and auxiliary ring.

The main ring carries data. A reverse-rotating auxiliary ring can transmit data in the opposite direction, but it is more common to reserve a backup ring to prevent the main ring from dropping. This provides FDDI with the degree of fault tolerance necessary for the network backbone.

If the primary ring fails, FDDI will automatically reconfigure to use the secondary ring. However, the auxiliary ring can also be configured to carry data, extending the maximum potential bandwidth to 200 Mbps.

The workstation is connected to one (or two) ring using the media interface connector (MIC). Depending on the implementation, its two fiber ports can be male or female. There are two different FDDI implementations, depending on whether the site is connected to one or two rings.

Single-attached stations (Class B stations): Use the M port to connect to the main ring or auxiliary ring. Single-link FDDI only uses the main ring, unlike the dual-link FDDI that is commonly deployed on the network backbone. A single connection station is mainly used to connect an Ethernet LAN or a single server to the FDDI backbone network.

Dual-attached stations (Class A stations): Connect to two rings. Port A is the point where the primary ring enters and the secondary ring leaves; port B is the opposite. M ports provide a connection point for a single connection station. Dual-link FDDI uses two rings, the auxiliary ring is used as a backup for the main ring. Dual connection FDDI is mainly used for network backbones that need fault tolerance.

Also see: Top 4 Fixes to Solve Unidentified Network Windows 10 Error

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