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A jumper cable is two or more wires or ropes running side by side and bonded, twisted or braided together to form a single assembly. The Third


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Interest in cryptocurrency has grown tremendously in the last several years. Whether you accept or pay with cryptocurrency, invested in it, are an experienced currency trader or you received a small amount as a gift, it's important to understand cryptocurrency tax implications.

The term cryptocurrency refers to a type of digital asset that can be used to buy goods and services, although many people invest in cryptocurrency similarly to investing in shares of stock. Part of its appeal is that it's a decentralized medium of exchange, meaning it operates without the involvement of banks, financial institutions, or other central authorities such as governments.

Cryptocurrency has built-in security features. Transactions are encrypted with specialized computer code and recorded on a blockchain — a public, distributed digital ledger in which every new entry must be reviewed and approved by all network members.

You may have heard of Bitcoin or Ethereum as two of the more popular cryptocurrencies, but there are thousands of different forms of cryptocurrency worldwide.

People might refer to cryptocurrency as a virtual currency, but it's not a true currency in the eyes of the IRS. According to IRS Notice 2014-21, the IRS considers cryptocurrency to be property, and capital gains and losses need to be reported on Schedule D and Form 8949 if necessary.

Despite the decentralized, virtual nature of cryptocurrency, and because the IRS treats it like property, your gains and losses in crypto transactions will typically affect your taxes.

If you buy, sell or exchange crypto in a non-retirement account, you'll face capital gains or losses. Like other investments taxed by the IRS, your gain or loss may be short-term or long-term, depending on how long you held the cryptocurrency before selling or exchanging it.

For short-term capital gains or ordinary income earned through crypto activities, you should use the following table to calculate your capital gains taxes:

If you held your cryptocurrency for more than one year, use the following table to calculate your long-term capital gains.

How you report cryptocurrency on your tax return depends on how you got it and how you used it.

You can also earn income related to cryptocurrency activities. This is treated as ordinary income and is taxed at your marginal tax rate, which could be between 10 to 37%.

When you buy and sell capital assets, your gains and losses fall into two classes: long-term and short-term. How the IRS treats these two classes is very different in terms of the tax consequences you’ll encounter.

When calculating your gain or loss, you start first by determining your cost basis on the property. Generally, this is the price you paid, which you adjust (increase) by any fees or commissions you paid to engage in the transaction. This final cost is called your adjusted cost basis.

Next, you determine the sale amount and adjust (reduce) it by any fees or commissions you paid to close the transaction.

Finally, you subtract your adjusted cost basis from the adjusted sale amount to determine the difference, resulting in a capital gain if the amount exceeds your adjusted cost basis, or a capital loss if the amount is less than your adjusted cost basis.

You can use a Crypto Tax Calculator to get an idea of how much tax you might owe from your capital gains or losses from crypto activities.

Buying cryptocurrency isn’t a taxable event by itself. You can choose to buy and hold cryptocurrency for as long as you’d like without paying taxes on it, even if the value of your position increases.

Taxes are due when you sell, trade or dispose of your cryptocurrency investments in any way that causes you to recognize a gain in your taxable accounts. This doesn’t apply if you trade cryptocurrency in a tax-deferred or tax-free account like an individual retirement account (IRA).

For example, if you buy $1,000 worth of Bitcoin and later sell it for $1,200, you'd need to report this $200 gain on your taxes. The gain, whether it’s a short-term or long-term capital gain, will depend on how long you’ve held the cryptocurrency.

If you instead sold the same $1,000 worth of Bitcoin for $800, you’d recognize a loss that can offset other gains and up to $3,000 of your taxable income if your total losses are greater than your total gains. Any unused loss can roll forward to future years as an offset to future gains or up to $3,000 of your taxable income per year.

Cryptocurrency mining refers to solving cryptographic hash functions to validate and add cryptocurrency transactions to a blockchain. In exchange for this work, miners receive cryptocurrency as a reward.

If you earn cryptocurrency by mining it, it's considered taxable income and might be reported on Form 1099-NEC at the fair market value of the cryptocurrency on the day you received it. You need to report this even if you don't receive a 1099 form as the IRS considers this taxable income and is likely subject to self-employment tax in addition to income tax.

Many businesses now accept Bitcoin and other cryptocurrency as payment. If someone pays you cryptocurrency in exchange for goods or services, the payment counts as taxable income, just as if they'd paid you via cash, check, credit card, or digital wallet. For tax reporting, the dollar value that you receive for goods or services is equal to the fair market value of the cryptocurrency on the day and time you received it.

If you mine, buy, or receive cryptocurrency and eventually sell or spend it, you have a capital transaction resulting in a gain or loss just as you would if you sold shares of stock. This is where cryptocurrency taxes can get more involved. Each time you dispose of cryptocurrency you are making a capital transaction that needs to be reported on your tax return.

For example, let's look at an example for buying cryptocurrency that appreciates in value and then is used to purchase plane tickets. The example will involve paying ordinary income taxes and capital gains tax.

When you calculate your basis in the Litecoin for capital gains tax, you need to account for the $200 worth of ordinary income included in your taxes. That same Litecoin position, now worth $500, gets used to purchase the plane tickets, meaning you wouldn’t pay capital gains tax on the original $200.

If you paid capital gains tax on the full $500, the initial $200 would be taxed twice: once as ordinary income and once as a capital gain.

Therefore, you subtract your original $200 basis from the $500 balance.

Those two cryptocurrency transactions are easy enough to track. But imagine you purchase $1,000 worth of Litecoin, load it onto a cryptocurrency debit card, and spend it over several months on coffee, groceries, lunches, and more.

If, like most taxpayers, you think of cryptocurrency as a cash alternative and you aren't keeping track of capital gains and losses for each of these transactions, it can be tough to unravel at year-end. Staying on top of these transactions is important for tax reporting purposes.

Cryptocurrency enthusiasts often exchange or trade one type of cryptocurrency for another. For example, say you have $1,000 worth of Litecoin and exchange it for $1,000 worth of Ethereum. If you originally paid $300 for the Litecoin, you have to recognize a $700 capital gain when you make the exchange. You established a $300 basis at the time of purchase for your original Litecoin position but recognized a $700 capital gain as a result of the coin’s appreciation between your purchase and the exchange for Ethereum. Your Ethereum’s basis is its fair market value at the time of exchange, making your new cost basis $1,000 after paying the $700 capital gain on the exchange.

It's important to note that all of these transactions are referenced back to United States dollars since this is the currency that is used for your tax return. So, even if you buy one cryptocurrency using another one without first converting to US dollars, you still have a taxable transaction.

An airdrop is when a new crypto project launches and sends out several free tokens to early adopters and their communities to encourage adoption as part of a broader marketing effort to promote the project’s inception. If you frequently interact with crypto platforms and exchanges, you may receive airdrops of new tokens in your account. These new coins count as a taxable event, causing you to pay taxes on these virtual coins.

A hard fork is a wholesale change in a blockchain network’s protocol that invalidates previously-verified transaction history blocks or vice versa. Many times, a cryptocurrency will engage in a hard fork as the result of wanting to create a new rule for the blockchain. The new, upgraded blockchain contains the new rule while the old chain doesn’t. Many users of the old blockchain quickly realize their old version of the blockchain is outdated or irrelevant now that the new blockchain exists following the hard fork, forcing them to upgrade to the latest version of the blockchain protocol. For a hard fork to work properly, all nodes or blockchain users must upgrade to the latest version of the protocol software.

A hard fork doesn’t always result in new cryptocurrency issued to the taxpayer, and doesn’t necessarily generate a taxable event as a result. However, in the event a hard fork occurs and is followed by an airdrop where you receive new virtual currency, this generates ordinary income.

This counts as taxable income on your tax return and you must report it to the IRS, whether you receive a 1099 form reporting the transaction or not.

Staking cryptocurrencies is a means for earning rewards for holding cryptocurrencies and providing a built-in investor and user base to give the coin value. Earning cryptocurrency through staking is similar to earning interest on a savings account. In exchange for staking your virtual currencies, you can be paid money that counts as taxable income.

You treat staking income the same as you do mining income: counted as fair market value at the time you earn the income and subject to income and possibly self employment taxes.

If you itemize your deductions, you may donate cryptocurrency to qualified charitable organizations and claim a tax deduction. You typically can deduct the fair market value of your cryptocurrency at the time of charitable contribution, and you don’t have to pay capital gains taxes when you donate.

Cryptocurrency charitable contributions are treated as non-cash charitable contributions. A charitable organization may assist in documenting your crypto-charitable contribution by providing a written acknowledgement if claiming a deduction of $250 or more for the virtual currency deduction.

Typically, you can't deduct losses for lost or stolen crypto on your return. The IRS states two types of losses exist for capital assets: casualty losses and theft losses. Generally speaking, casualty losses in the crypto world would mean having damage, destruction, or loss of your crypto from an identifiable event that is sudden, unexpected or unusual. As an example, this could include negligently sending your crypto to the wrong wallet or some similar event, though other factors may need to be considered to determine if the loss constitutes a casualty loss. Theft losses would occur when your wallet or an exchange are hacked.

In either case, you can’t deduct these losses to offset your gains. Due to tax reform laws going into effect in 2018, most all casualty and theft losses aren’t deductible between 2018 and 2025. In the future, taxpayers may be able to benefit from this deduction if they itemize their deductions instead of claiming the standard deduction.

You can make tax-free crypto transactions under certain situations, depending on the transaction you make, the account you transact in, your income, and filing status.

When you buy cryptocurrency, this doesn’t create a taxable event even if the value increases over time. Tax consequences don't result until you decide to sell or exchange the cryptocurrency.

For crypto transactions you make in a tax-deferred or tax-free account, like a Traditional or Roth IRA, respectively, these transactions don’t get taxed like they would in a brokerage account. These trades avoid taxation.

Depending on your income each year, long-term capital gains rates can be as low as 0%. For 2022, you can also avoid paying taxes when selling your cryptocurrency if your table income is less than or equal to $41,675 if you file as a single person, as married, filing separately, or your taxable income is less than or equal to $83,350 if you file jointly as a married couple.

The IRS is stepping up enforcement of cryptocurrency tax reporting as these virtual currencies grow in popularity. As a result, you need to keep track of your crypto activity and report this information to the IRS on the appropriate crypto tax forms.

The IRS estimates that only a fraction of people buying, selling, and trading cryptocurrencies were properly reporting those transactions on their tax returns. The agency provided further guidance on how cryptocurrency should be reported and taxed in October 2019 for the first time since 2014.

Beginning in tax year 2020, the IRS also made a change to Form 1040 and began including the question: "At any time during 2022, did you receive, sell, send, exchange or otherwise acquire any financial interest in any virtual currency?"

If you check "yes," the IRS will likely expect to see income from cryptocurrency transactions on your tax return.

Crypto tax software helps you track all of these transactions, ensuring you have a complete list of activities to report when it comes time to prepare your taxes. The software integrates with several virtual currency brokers, digital wallets, and other crypto platforms to import cryptocurrency transactions into your online tax software. This can include trades made in cryptocurrency but also transactions made with the virtual currency as a form of payment for goods and services.

Depending on the crypto tax software, the transaction reporting may resemble documentation you could file with your return on Form 8949, Sales and Other Dispositions of Capital Assets, or can be formatted in a way so that it is easily imported into tax preparation software. Often, you’ll pay for tiers of service for the number of transactions reported.

Despite the anonymous nature of cryptocurrencies, the IRS may still have ways of tracking your crypto activity.

For example, if you trade on a crypto exchange that provides reporting through Form 1099-B, Proceeds from Broker and Barter Exchange Transactions, they'll provide a reporting of these trades to the IRS.

Further, the IRS makes use of blockchain analytics tools for identifying crypto activity of digital wallets and ties them to individuals in instances where they suspect tax evasion and/or money laundering may be occurring.

As a result, you’ll want to make sure you report all crypto activities during the year on your tax return.

When you place crypto transactions through a brokerage or from using these digital currencies as a means for payment, this constitutes a sale or exchange. As a result, you’ll need to document your crypto sales details, including how much you bought it for and when. These transactions are typically reported on Form 8949, Schedule D, and Form 1040.

If you traded crypto in an investment account or on a crypto exchange or used it to make payments for goods and services, you may receive Form 1099-B reporting these transactions. In other investment accounts like those held with a stock broker, this information is usually provided on this 1099 Form. However, not every platform provides these forms. In this case, they can typically still provide the information even if it isn't on a 1099-B.

If you mined crypto or received crypto as an award, then you might receive either Form 1099-MISC, Miscellaneous Income, or 1099-NEC, Nonemployee Compensation. These forms are used to report how much ordinary income you were paid for different types of work-type activities. The information form these forms can be used to help you prepare Schedule C, Profit or Loss from Business and Schedule SE, Self-Employment Tax.

When any of these 1099 forms are issued to you, they're also sent to the IRS so that they can match the information on the forms to what you report on your tax return.

TurboTax Tip: Cryptocurrency exchanges won't be required to send 1099-B forms until tax year 2023. If you don’t receive a Form 1099-B from your crypto exchange, you must still report all crypto sales or exchanges on your taxes.

Coinbase was the subject of a John Doe Summons in 2016 that required it to provide transaction information to the IRS for its customers. As a result, the company handed over information for over 8 million transactions conducted by its customers.

Today, the company only issues Forms 1099-MISC if it pays out rewards or bonuses to you for taking specific actions on the platform. Further, you may need to exceed the $600 minimum payment threshold for the company to issue both you and the IRS a Form 1099-MISC documenting their payments to you.

However, starting in tax year 2023, the American Infrastructure Bill of 2021 requires crypto exchanges to send 1099-B forms reporting all transaction activity.

Even though Coinbase doesn’t supply this information through direct reporting to the IRS, you still must report this activity on your tax return as it is taxable income. You can access account information through the platform to calculate any applicable capital gains or losses and the resulting taxes you must pay on your tax return.


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Sharbing is where you do arbing in physical bookmaker shops rather than online. It is a portmanteau word, which is a mixture of the words ‘shop’ and ‘arbing’. ‘Arbing’, or arbitrage betting, is the technique of making money when you can find back odds which are higher than the lay odds.

However, in this guide, I will consider all sorts of offers which you do in shops rather than online. And there are a lot of them! Bookies normally have special offers running all the time; although not all of them are layable or suitable for matched betting.

The first thing to remember when sharbing is that odds are NOT the same as online odds. That’s one of the main reasons for sharbing. Shops are slower to update their odds than online sites. In fact, there are two sets of odds in bookie shops: the over-the-counter odds and the machine odds. Over-the-counter odds are generally better, but not always.

This article does NOT discuss slot machine shops, such as Cashino. Those shops can also be used for money-making purposes in similar ways to online casino offers. It does, however, include a very basic guide to slots, as shops occasionally do an offer where you get free spins if you make a qualifying bet.

There are also some Jennings and independent bookies to be found. As well as some bookies which are unique to the north of England. I have no access to these, but the advice here will still apply to them. Please go gentle on independents as it’s a fragile market. Indies who are willing to match the best price out there, in particular, are very vulnerable to sharbers and should be treated with caution. There’s no point in betting with people who are liable to go bankrupt!

Odds in shops are slower to react than online odds are, and so it is possible to get arbs. Remember: these are bets where the back odds are higher than the lay odds, resulting in a profit.

Shops have their own offers, which are sometimes very generous. If you find a good offer, you can normally do it in more than one shop. In fact, in as many shops as you can find, unless the staff spot that you are an ‘arber’ and take proactive steps to warn each other.

No one knows who you are, so what you do in a shop will not normally affect what happens online. And vice versa. You can be totally gubbed online and still do relatively big bets in a shop. (Always use cash, for this very reason!)

If eventually, you are gubbed in a shop, it is temporary. Gubbings online are forever. Gubbings in a shop where you are anonymous last only until a change of shift / that person leaves / the shop forgets about you. This means that there is no real benefit to ‘protecting your account’.

Many of you may never have been through the doors of a bookie shop before. I have mystery shopped many of these shops, and can reassure you that one of the things that bookie staff are judged on is their ability to be friendly to, and to explain things to, new customers. So you should be assured of a warm welcome, and if there’s anything you don’t understand, remember the staff are there to help you. Although obviously, your aim is to come across as a normal punter. Or a mystery shopper. (More about this later).

Important point: you have to be 18+ to enter a bookie. If you look young for your age, take ID as staff check the age of anyone who looks under 25. You cannot take children in with you, so leave the kids at home! I would seriously advise you to dress to look over 25 since the whole point of bookies is anonymity. Avoid giving your real name or paying by anything except cash whenever you can. If you are under 25, try to act older. For example, if you have the choice of producing a driving licence, rather than a student ID, use the driving licence.

When placing a bet, allow enough time. It can be tempting to take an arb on a horse three minutes before the race is due to set off, only to find that Old Joe is putting a horse accumulator on at the till, and wants the price of every horse checked. Always make sure you have left enough time to put your bet on, sit down at one of the tables provided, and lay it. (Or go outside to lay it if you are really worried about being spotted, or if there is no signal inside).

Although I have been rather rude about staff several times in this article, remember to be nice to staff. Most of the things they do wrong are simply due to them having not been trained by their employer. And they are being poorly paid for what can sometimes be a really horrible job. Your job is to stay under the radar as far as possible, but if you are remembered, make sure it’s for being a pleasant, polite customer. If all else fails, pretend to be a mystery shopper.

Mystery shoppers are people who are paid to examine customer service in shops, and bookies know that they are judged on friendliness and helpfulness. If you ask to use the toilet in a bookie, examine the FOBTS (fixed odds betting terminal) carefully and look thoughtful. You will probably be suspected of mystery shopping and offered a cup of tea or coffee. Yes, bookies do offer free drinks to their customers. You might even get sweets and biscuits if there’s a major event going on!

Sadly, they do. And you do need to know how to cope with these. So here’s a quick revision session:

Fractional odds show the PROFIT to the customer if the bet wins. Decimal odds show the RETURN to the customer (the profit plus the initial stake). To change fractional odds to decimal, work out the fraction and add 1.

Quite frankly, you will learn the translation in time, but here are some hints:

Any whole number, just add one. The odds for horses, for example, are just shown as (e.g.) 10. This means 10/1 = 11.0 in decimal. It’s why I try to be careful to express decimal odds with a decimal point so that I describe odds as being 26.0 rather than 26 when I am talking about decimal odds.

Quarters, eighths and halves (fractions where the bottom number is 4, 8 or 2) are easy to work out.

The two which it is useful and helpful to remember is that 1/9 = 0.11 and 1/11 = 0.09.

The three which I find difficult to remember, and are not so easy to work out on the spot, are 8/15 (1.53), 8/13 (1.615) and 4/7 (1.57).

Most of the offers in this guide will be advertised in shop windows, or inside the shop on TV screens or on coupons. Basically, the rule is: never walk past a bookie shop. If you have time, always go in and see what’s going on inside.

Many shops have a loyalty card system. These are worth signing up to and don’t always have to be linked to an online account. Although you will usually need to link them to a mobile phone number where you can receive texts. (Not always, though. I have a William Hill Plus card which is not linked to a mobile phone, and although I obviously don’t receive notifications of offers, I can still take the boosted prices offered to cardholders on the betting machines in shops. If I linked this card to an online account, I would get £30 of free bets, but as the online account is seriously limited, I have opted not to do this).

If you use your loyalty card to log into the SBT in some shops, it will show you special offers for cardholders. In other shops, specifically Ladbrokes, you have to present your card for scanning to do certain offers.

At this point, I am simply going to state that I will not discuss multi-accounting in this article. However, I do not consider running from one shop to another to do the same offer multi-accounting. If you find a good offer in a bookie shop and you live in a major conurbation, you might consider checking whether there are any other branches of that shop accessible to you. Where do you live? Where do you work? Which shops do you pass on your way to work? Most bookie shops have a shop locator function online….

Do not use your loyalty card unless it is necessary for an offer. Remember that one of the big bonuses of shops is that you are anonymous. Use cash, and keep your identity a secret!

Different shops specialise in different offers. Because these offers have been similar for many years, it is worth discussing them briefly here. Of course, they may change in the future, and this is why it’s always worth checking in-shop. You are unlikely to be challenged if you sit down with your phone at a quiet table and check the lay prices. And work out the lay stake. But don’t lay until you have placed the bet, obviously. Your aim is always to be aware of the (approximate) lay price before placing your bet.

Very annoyingly, bookie shops publish coupons and then change the odds if they feel like it. (OK, sometimes for a good reason, but it is still annoying). When you place a bet using a coupon, they should tell you if the odds have changed and what the new odds are, so you can decide whether or not to accept the odds. Remember you can always refuse the bet, go away and think about the new odds. You may need to do this if you are not fluent in fractional to decimal conversion. Then you can always come back and put the bet on.

To avoid this situation, it is possible to check current odds in advance in most WH shops and to check horse odds in advance in PP and possibly Ladbrokes/Coral. How to do this is detailed under the bookie shops listed below.

It is important to CHECK YOUR BETSLIP. If you find that the odds have changed from the published odds, you are entitled to refuse the bet. I normally tell the staff member off for not having mentioned this rather vital fact. I explain to them that if you go to a sweetshop to buy 100g of sweets, the sweetshop is not entitled to sell you 80g of sweets instead at the same price without warning you that the price has changed. This is what they are doing by reducing the odds on a bet.

Be aware that some staff members don’t understand fractional odds at all, and although they will be able to tell that a price has changed, they will have no idea whether it has gone down or up! Another reason to get your head around decimal conversions! You can ask them to check the price before they hit confirm, but I have found many times that this makes no difference at all since they don’t understand what they are looking at when they see a bet slip. Sigh.

If the shop is giving you a free bet, make sure they give you the correct one. Check any paperwork they give you for expiry dates, etc. Read the T&Cs of offers you are doing on the posters, and be prepared to quote these. I have had a few free bet vouchers this week with a one-day validity, despite the fact that posters say that the bets will be valid for at least 3 days. (I didn’t care, since my objective is always to turn free bet vouchers into proper bet slips ASAP, but you might care, if you were short of time to research the best free bet). I’ve also received:

All these drawbacks may sound discouraging, but remember I have done literally thousands of shop bets. Most work smoothly with the single exception that it can take shop staff several minutes to find the correct free bet voucher to give you. You can suggest that you sit down and check your emails (by which I mean check lay prices and check other shop offers) while they look!

Horses and boosts are there to be arbed! You will normally bet on horses only if you see a good price when the horse is boosted. So, researching the prices is much easier. If there is an offer on a race, horse odds are easier to find than football odds, generally.

The only caveat on horses generally is to learn and remember how long it can take to put a physical bet on in a shop. Ordinary punters will often push past you when a race is about to set off, to put their bet on quickly. This is generally regarded as acceptable in shops! Staff will not interrupt old Joe who is in the middle of getting a long stream of individual prices for his acca (accumulator), so be aware of timescales!

FOBT stands for ‘fixed-odds betting terminal’, which actually has nothing to do with betting and everything to do with gambling. They are the machines which actually make money for the shop: the electronic slot machines. It is well worth doing offers where if you bet £x on a normal bet you get a free voucher for a slot machine. Staff will show you how to redeem this. The vouchers are often for a specific game, but if you have to choose, you want the game with the lowest stake (for maximum lines). Just do the number of spins needed to use up the amount of your free voucher and walk away with any profit. Good luck!

William Hill generally have the best offers, with the single exception of Betfred boosts, and they regularly have offers on their football coupons. Offers such as ‘bet £10 on this race and we will give you a £5 free bet’. In some shops, if you are lucky, it could be a £10 free bet. If you have an offer like this, the coupon can be overwhelming but bear in mind that your bet to get the free bet is a qualifying bet with no minimum odds. The qualifying loss is likely to be lowest on low odds. So look at match odds when there is a very short-priced favourite, over and under goals (normally 2.5 but sometimes 3.5 on the coupon) and BTTS.

Incidentally, and especially if you pay commission at your exchanges, it has been suggested that if you bet on the same match at different bookies, you could consider dutching BTTS or unders and overs at different shops. (Topping up your bets at the exchange if necessary).

The good news is that at WH you can check coupon odds before you place your bets.

Their loyalty card is the Plus card and offers for joining this vary from week to week. At the moment I think it is:

They also have regular other offers. Most of their horse offers are unlayable (the horse to win by a specified number of lengths), although they have ‘flash odds’ which are usually on the screen for 15 minutes, at random times. (Always check the screens!). During big festivals such as Cheltenham (held in March) and Ascot (held in June) they sometimes have flash odds between 12 noon and 1 pm. A different horse every 15 minutes.

WH is the shop where you can normally check your odds on a machine. There are two different sorts of odds-checking machines in the shops. The good news is that the old-fashioned ones (not much use for football matches) are increasingly being replaced by the newer model.

This is what the old-fashioned machine looks like:

My experience of these machines is that they don’t reliably display the same range of information every day, which can be very frustrating. In theory, you should be able to get match odds for football matches today by pressing button 8. For big matches, there may also be other information, but this is not reliable. They can be useful for looking up current in-shop offers. You will see that there is one (probably unlayable, but worth seeing if Matchbook has a special market) on display on this screen.

The newer odds machines, with touchscreens, are an invaluable asset. (Apologies for the screen reflections as taking photos in shops is generally frowned upon, so this had to be done at speed).

These machines are intuitive and easy to use. Just be aware that BTTS is under football > goals > BTTS. (Unders and overs are of course also under football > goals). The newer machines should definitely display the current odds, even if they have been updated.

WH currently have two sorts of free bets: one to be used over the counter and the other on an in-shop betting machine.

As you can see from this bet, it can only be used over the counter. Which is a pain because it means using over-the-counter odds. It can be difficult to find out what the odds for correct scores (usually the best market to use free bets on) are over the counter. You can ask the staff member nicely if they will show you the odds for a forthcoming match. I would recommend using a match which happens the day you place the bet so that the exchange market is well-formed.

This sort of bet is used on an SBT – the betting machines in the shop. It has a barcode on the back which must be scanned and will give you (SNR / stake not returned) credit on the machine. These are a lot easier to use as normally no one cares how long you spend on the machine researching your odds!

Obviously, the design of these free bets will change regularly, but the important things to note are:

Betfred is the most reliable bookie for finding arbs, and together with PP, has the best over-the-counter odds on most events. Fred Done, who owns BF, boasts that he gives the best value for money, and every Saturday morning and lunchtime he publishes special boosts, normally on horses, from 9.30-11 am. These boosts are also announced on his website, on Twitter and in the shops as he publishes them. Do check before piling in, as the boosts are not always profitable.

He also publishes boosts on the mornings of big horse events such as Cheltenham and Royal Ascot. There are also sometimes horse previews for big events. These are sometimes held in the shops, especially just before Cheltenham, and sometimes online, as in the following Twitter advertisement:

You will see it’s well worth having a dedicated Twitter account for sharbing. In fact, it’s a good idea for matched betting in general!

Write pushes down as soon as they are announced. Ideally, you want to check the lay odds and get your bet on as soon as possible. After a few minutes, the boost will appear on screens in the shop and will look something like this:

When you write your bet slip, include the words ‘FRED’S PUSH’ or something similar, and the price. If you do not include either of these details, you are like to be paid at SP (Starting Price), which will most likely be lower.

Sadly, Fred’s Pushes do not normally include BOG (Best Odds Guaranteed), except on special occasions. They are also available online if you have a functioning account. If you do have a viable Betfred account, it’s worth checking Twitter at random times to see what offers are around.

The normal times for Fred’s Pushes are 9.30-11 on Saturdays, and 12-1. I suspect there may be pushes at 12-1 almost every day, but have not researched this in detail. The horse boosts disappear promptly at 11 am, or earlier if they are oversubscribed. The person broadcasting will normally announce if a price is cut early). Football boosts may survive all day.

If you drop into a Betfred shop at a random time, look at the main TV screen. It often has a yellow banner which announces current boosts:

This will scroll across. Make a note of what it says and once it has rolled around once, research your lay odds. The yellow banner may also disappear without warning if a race starts, but will come back after a few minutes, once the event is over.

If you are betting close to 11 am, or the price has been announced as being about to be cut, take a surreptitious photo of the screen advertising the offer immediately after placing the bet. In the event of your bet winning, and BF staff saying the price had already been cut, these photos can be useful!

These two firms are owned by the same company. This means that odds are generally the same. (If you find a good arb in one shop, run to the other as the odds are likely to be identical!) There are no good current offers and offers by this group have been sparse of late. One offer that Ladbrokes does have regularly (that Coral doesn’t) is ‘refund if your horse comes second’. This is normally on one race a day, although on big events it may be on every race.

In the past they have had regular football offers on coupons where you can bet on selected markets and get a refund on losing bets if the result is a draw. It is normally possible to get a small profit on these. You normally have to bet on correct score or first goalscorer, although sometimes it is possible to bet on a team to win (NOT on the draw, which would not be a losing bet) using your Grid card. If you have already used your Grid card, you need to bet on a CS which is not a draw, in order to maximise these bets. This is since it is possible for anyone to score but the game still to end in a draw.

Otherwise, there are various offers available to Grid card holders (Ladbrokes loyalty card), and to Connect card holders (Coral’s loyalty card). These change regularly, and as with other loyalty cards DO NOT use your card unless it is necessary for an offer. The cards are just a cheap way of the companies getting your data and knowing it is you making the bets! Stay anonymous = stay ungubbed (hopefully). A quick illustration of one of Ladbrokes’ offers, which I have no interest in doing since it involves being in the shop at a specific in-play time and dealing with volatile odds (OMG I see it’s an in-play TREBLE, as well!):

PP has some excellent and constantly changing offers, plus a good loyalty card. As the offers change so regularly I will simply illustrate them, rather than discussing them in detail.

During the football season, they often give refunds on losing bets if the game ends in a draw. You normally have to bet on Correct Score or First Goalscorer. To maximise these bets, you need to bet on a Correct Score which is not a draw, since it is possible for anyone to score but the game still to end in a draw.

Whatever the staff tell you (and they do try it on sometimes) your coupon is evidence of a legally enforceable contract between you and the bookie. Ideally it’s good to get the bookie to check the odds or write them on for you if you are not betting on a coupon. The bookie should circle the odds to verify they have checked them. You can ask them to do this. I have had PLENTY of examples where bookies have denied that odds, which they themselves have provided and have written on the slip, ever existed. If you get into a fight like this, think what will be useful.

Betfred is famous for advertising boosts on screens in the shops which they then sometimes say have been cut already. A photo of the screen after you have placed the bet destroys this argument very effectively, I find!


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