How to get to uzbekistan?
When I told people that I was going to Uzbekistan for 10 days, the reactions I got all shared a similar sentiment. “Why Uzbekistan?” “Where is that?” “I literally know nothing about that place.”
Truth is, I barely knew anything about traveling to Uzbekistan either. But having been to many “popular” destinations in the past, I was thirsty to explore somewhere less-known; somewhere relatively untouched.
As it turns out, Uzbekistan is actually not as hidden as I had thought — there were quite a lot of tourists — but it’s still one of the most underrated and breathtaking places I’ve ever visited. So here’s a guide on what to do and what to expect in Uzbekistan. I hope it will convince you to pay a visit too!
If you don’t have time to travel the entire length of the Silk Road, Uzbekistan is the perfect week-long glimpse into it. Located in the center of Eurasia, it played a key role back in the days not only in the trade of gold, silk, and spices but also of culture and religion.
Missionaries, scholars, and musicians who passed by the Silk Road hubs of Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva brought Islamic art and teachings along with them. Today, you’ll see these three key cities bustling with beautifully ornate madrasas, mosques, and minarets — scenes you’d only expect to see inside a chapter of One Thousand And One Nights.
Uzbekistan is one of only two double-landlocked countries in the world (the other one being Liechtenstein. This means that not only is it landlocked, but it’s also surrounded by other landlocked countries. So the most common ways of getting to Uzbekistan are by air or by car.
Flying is the easiest way to reach Uzbekistan. The main international airport is in Tashkent (TAS), but there’s also one in Samarkand (SKD), which is where my partner and I flew into.
Aeroflot and Turkish Airlines are the two main airlines that operate flights to Uzbekistan. You would therefore either have a layover in Moscow or in Istanbul somewhere on your journey. My partner and I took the Aeroflot route from London. The flight was around four hours to Moscow and another four hours from Moscow to Samarkand.
It is definitely possible to do a roadtrip around Central Asia, covering Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Tajikistan as well. Taxis and buses are also available to help you cross the borders into Uzbekistan.
There are three main border crossings between Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan in the cities of Gisht Kuprik, Chinaz, and Kungrad. From Kyrgyzstan, the main border crossings are at Gisht Kuprik, Khanabad, and Andijan. In Tajikistan, Dushanbe (its capital) is about 55 km from the border of Uzbekistan in Denau.
Some borders do have opening hours. For example, if you’re planning to enter through Gisht Kuprik, be sure to do so between 7am–9pm (Tashkent time).
If you’re a citizen of the European Union or other select countries such as the USA, Canada, India, and Australia (there are many more too), you’re eligible for an e-visa. This means you simply have to fill out a standard online application (without needing a letter of invitation), and you’ll receive your visa to visit Uzbekistan via e-mail within two working days. You can find more information about the e-visas here, including whether you’re eligible for it.
If you’re not eligible for e-visas, you will need a letter of invitation, which isn’t as hard to obtain as it may sound. There are many travel agencies that can do that for you, online. The one my partner used is Global Connect and it cost around $65. He then applied for his visa in person through the embassy and received it within one week. We found the visa procedure to be fairly simple overall and did not encounter any issues at all.
While it’s feasible to cover the main attractions of Uzbekistan in one week, my partner and I found that spending 10 days in this country was ideal. This gave us the perfect amount of time to really absorb everything and relax while sightseeing. Below are the main cities to visit, along with their must-see spots.
Founded in the 7th century B.C., Samarkand is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia. Its geographic location in the center of major trade routes attracted a lot of travelers and invaders. It has been captured by both Alexander the Great in 329 BC and Genghis Khan in 1220. In the 14th century, it became the capital of the Timurid Empire.
Through the course of its history, it has been ruled by Persians, Greeks, Turks, Mongols, Chinese, and Russians. Half a dozen religions have found a home here. Today, it is the second largest city in Uzbekistan and part of the UNESCO World Heritage, listed as ‘Samarkand — Crossroads of Cultures.’
Note: The above places are all within walking distance of each other, aside from Ulugh Beg Observatory, which may require a taxi. In addition, if you have an extra day in Samarkand, a day trip to Shakhrisabz, one of Central Asia’s most ancient cities, is very much recommended.
Tip: When you visit Registan, make sure to watch a traditional Uzbek concert inside the Sher-Dor Madrasah. Against the backdrop of the gorgeous madrasah walls, you’ll see locals perform in their traditional clothing, showcasing not only their music but also their culture, such as scenes from a Uzbek wedding. The concert starts at 7pm daily, and it’s $5 per person. You can buy tickets right inside the square even right before the concert starts.
The city of Bukhara is more than 2,000 years old. Its historic center has been preserved very well for the last two centuries. It therefore gives a great glimpse into a medieval Central Asian Muslim city filled with ancient religious architecture.
Tip: To get a taste of the “real Bukhara,” make sure to book a slot at a Hammam, a traditional steam bath. The Bozori Kord Hammam is one of the oldest in the world (built in the 14th century) and a great way to experience this exotic ancient ritual. Not only would you be discovering the secrets of the Oriental Massage, but you’ll also get a sense of the real way of life in Bukhara.
Out of all the Silk Road gems in Central Asia, the city of Khiva is perhaps the most intact, remote, and preserved of them all. This medieval town is essentially an open air museum. It has a fortress surrounding its inner city, which is home to dozens of ancient madrasas, mosques, minarets, and clay-colored houses.
Tip #1: Do not miss out on Khiva. Due to its remoteness and small size, Khiva is often overlooked and people tend to skip it if their schedule is tight. If your time in Uzbekistan is limited, cut your visit in Bukhara or Tashkent shorter by a day so that you’d have time to see Khiva. Because of how well it’s been preserved, this city truly stands out with its ancient and authentic vibe. Being there felt like walking inside a film set. The clay-colored architecture makes this town resemble a real life sand castle city — something truly unique and hard to find anywhere else in the world.
Tip #2: Get a personal guide inside Itchan Kala. There are many places in Khiva that are quite hard to find on your own. Lavish, colorful courtyards tend to be hidden behind small doors you’d never think to walk through because, from the outside, they don’t appear to lead to anywhere special. Getting a guide costs around $30 for a 3 hour tour (you pay a total of $30 even if you’re traveling in pairs), and you can request this service inside the ticket office right at the entrance of Itchan Kala.
Being the capital of Uzbekistan with the largest international airport in the country, you are most likely to fly into and out of Tashkent. Wandering around the city, you’ll find part of it cluttered with modern buildings; another part adorned with Soviet-style architecture, and yet another part that’s more traditionally Uzbek with mud-walled houses, crowded bazaars, and traditionally clad farmers hard at work.
It’s very easy to navigate Uzbekistan on your own, and you can do so via trains, flights, or taxis. My partner and I used a mixture of them all.
There are multiple daily trains connecting Samarkand, Bukhara, and Tashkent. Many of them are high-speed, meaning a journey between Samarkand and Tashkent or Samarkand and Bukhara would only take 1-2 hours.
My partner and I took the Afrosiyob high-speed rail and it was a very comfortable experience. The trains were punctual, clean, and equipped with AC — a lifesaver during the summer months. Tickets cost $7 if you buy them at the train stations and around $25 if you reserve online in advance.
Note: There are no websites from which you can directly buy these train tickets. If you’d like to reserve them in advance, the only way is to go through Uzbek travel agencies, which will buy and email them to you.
We used Global Connect to reserve ours as it was the most affordable option we found, and it was a smooth and pleasant experience. As I mentioned before though, it is much cheaper and less of a hassle to buy the tickets in person at the station.
There are airports in Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, and Urgench (which is about a 30-minute drive from Khiva). Flights between these cities typically range from $25 – $50 one way. Because trains are much more affordable and not that different in their length of the journey, it’s almost illogical to fly between Tashkent, Bukhara, and Samarkand.
Flying does become a convenient option, however, when going to Khiva. This ancient town is quite remote and a bit harder to reach. A flight from Tashkent to Urgench is the fastest way to get there and it takes about 1.5 hours, costing $50 one way.
Taking a taxi between the main cities is not recommended unless you’re going to Khiva. Aside from flying into Urgench, a very common way of reaching this remote town is via a private or shared taxi from Bukhara.
The journey is around 7 hours (with breaks in between) and costs $50 for a private ride and $20 for a shared ride. An advantage of choosing to go to Khiva by car (rather than by air) is that you can take a little detour along the road trip to visit some ancient fortresses, such as the one in Tuprakkala. It will prolong your trip by two hours and cost an extra $10, but getting to explore exotic ruins in the middle of a desert is not an experience you get every day.
Within Uzbekistan cities, taxis are very cheap. They usually cost $1.25 for a 10-15 minute ride. With that said, Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva are walkable cities for the most part. So you’d only need taxis when going to the train station/airport, or when visiting a few remote attractions away from the historic centers.
We were completely stunned by how gorgeously decorated, cozy, and homey Uzbekistan hotels were. They were also very affordable. You can find a variety of high quality boutique hotels, B&Bs, and guesthouses for $20 – $30 a night on sites like Booking.com.
The hotels we stayed at were clean, well-situated, and well-renovated. The staff were also very friendly. Just don’t expect good WiFi connection — that’s a rare luxury in Uzbekistan no matter where you stay.
Registan is the pearl of the city and close to many other attractions. I highly recommend staying within walking distance of it. A few suggestions:
The historic center, where you can find most of the city’s attractions, has a variety of hotels from which to choose, and it’s the best area in which to stay. Two places I’d recommend are:
I’d recommend staying inside or as close to Itchan Kala (the inner town) as possible. It’s where almost everything worth seeing is concentrated. Two hotels you might enjoy are:
Tashkent is a big city, so staying close to a metro station makes things a lot more convenient. I’d recommend finding a hotel near the Central Square (close to Amir Temur metro station) as you can meet lots of locals there and enjoy the shopping centers and cafes nearby.
The Uzbek cuisine is one of the most exquisite and flavorful ones I’ve tried, and it’ll leave you longing for more even after leaving the country. Some must-try national dishes are: plov, shurpa, lagman, manti, somsa, naan bread, shashlik, kazan kabob, and shivit oshi.
If you’re a vegan or vegetarian, you unfortunately might have a hard time finding adequate options. This country loves meat to the nth degree, and most if not all of their signature dishes either include or are prepared with it. With that said, there definitely are restaurants that offer vegetarian options, and salads are available almost everywhere.
In the list of restaurants further down, I have added an asterisk next to places that offer vegetarian dishes.
A tip for vegetarians: say “bez myasa” when ordering salads. It means “without meat”. This can come in handy as some salad plates may also occasionally contain sliced meat (you can see how much Uzbeks love their meat!).
*Has good vegetarian options
*Has good vegetarian options
*Has good vegetarian options
*Has good vegetarian options
The best time to visit Uzbekistan is during spring or autumn: end of April to mid-May, or end of September to mid-October tend to offer the most pleasant temperatures (around 14° – 26°C). It doesn’t rain much during those periods either. During these times you can enjoy the heat without it being uncomfortably hot like it is in the summer, when temperatures can go up to 40°C. In the winter, temperatures can go as low as -10°C.
Contrary to popular belief, Uzbekistan is actually quite liberal. Although most of its population is Muslim, this country isn’t officially a Muslim country and many cultures and religions coexist and are welcome here. Uzbek people consider their homeland to be secular and modern, and there are no strict rules here about how women should dress.
We saw schoolgirls wearing short skirts especially in large and modern cities like Tashkent. Headscarves are not required at all, even when entering many mosques. There are some mosques that require you to wear them though, such as Minor Mosque in Tashkent. That is however the only one we personally encountered that has the requirement.
You may get certain looks from the older generation if you’re seen in short dresses and tank tops, but just like in many other secular countries, that is only because of cultural and generational differences rather than religious ones. Like many other places in the world, the older generation in Uzbekistan dresses more conservatively while the younger generation is far more liberal.
My suggestion is therefore: do what’s most comfortable for you. But do keep in mind that Uzbek people don’t think of their country as Muslim and don’t expect you to dress like you’re in one. All that being said, definitely still bring some clothes that cover your knees and shoulders for mosques and mausoleums. No one will scream at you for not doing so, but it’s the respectful thing to do.
Uzbekistan is one of the safest countries you can visit. It boasts a very low crime rate and doesn’t have the safety concerns (such as pickpocketing) that you may find in many European cities. Never once did we feel threatened when we were there, even when walking around at night.
We also met a woman who was traveling solo in Uzbekistan, and she shared some of her experiences with us. She said that during her time there, she’s been met with nothing but kindness from the locals, who were there to help her out whenever she needed it. She said that when she first landed at the airport, she couldn’t find taxis anywhere. A local who needed a taxi too saw her struggling and hailed one for both of them. He asked the driver to drop her off at her hotel but insistently refused to let her pay her share, essentially giving her a free ride.
She also shared that one of the locals she met in Uzbekistan spent an entire day giving her a free tour of Samarkand, showing her all the hidden and local spots that she would have never discovered by herself. This was not surprising to hear, as our own encounters with Uzbek people had been nothing short of heartwarming. They are, in general, extremely friendly and welcoming, and often go out of their way to make sure you have the best experience in their country.
So if you’re thinking about traveling solo as a woman in Uzbekistan, just apply common sense like you would anywhere else, and you will have a great time.
For more information, be sure to read our Guide To Solo Female Travel In Uzbekistan!
If you’re still debating about whether or not you should visit Uzbekistan, I’ll end this guide by saying that out of the 50+ countries I’ve been to, Uzbekistan is one of the most breathtaking, remarkable, and underrated places I’ve ever experienced. Never in my life have I come across architecture so mesmerizing that it left me speechless every corner I turned; people so friendly that I felt genuinely welcomed into a country so foreign to me; food so delicious that I still dream about it everyday; and beauty so staggering that I still refuse to believe what I saw in this country was real at all.
Uzbekistan is an utter dream. An architecture fiend’s fantasy, a photographer’s heaven, and an intrepid traveler’s ultimate gem to uncover. If you don’t stop by, you’re truly missing out.
We hope this guide has inspired you to travel to Uzbekistan! If you have any additional tips for our readers or questions please leave these in the comments below.
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The national airline is Uzbekistan Airways (www.uzairways.com), which offers direct flights from London. There are also plenty of indirect flight options with carriers such as Lufthansa (www.lufthansa.com), Aeroflot (www.aeroflot.com), Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com) and Air Baltic (www.airbaltic.com).
Customs forms are sometimes cause for concern with travellers entering or departing by air – these forms (there are two copies to fill out, one for them, one that you keep) simply require you to declare any currency you are either bringing into, or taking out of, Uzbekistan, along with the amount. Essentially the authorities are checking that you are not leaving Uzbekistan with more foreign money than you brought in; if this is found to be the case you will incur a significant fine.
From London - 7 hours.
None.
With an ever-growing flight network and cheaper airfares, rail travel into Uzbekistan fares poorly in comparison with tales of discomfort and occasional theft. Still, it is an adventure, and in most cases foreigners are treated well and are sometimes toasted with clinks of vodka glasses. The Uzbekistan Railways site (www.uzrailpass.uz/index.php) is a useful website.
There are good rail connections into Tashkent from Almaty in Kazakhstan. From Almaty connecting trains are possible through to to Urumchi in China. From Moscow there is a train that departs from Kazanski station to Tashkent, four times a week; it takes over 60 hours and crosses in and out of Kazakhstan on the route, therefore a multiple Kazakh visa may be needed - double check before departing. Other major Russian cities also have direct trains to Uzbekistan, including St Petersburg, Ufa, Novosibirsk and Yekaterinburg (all of these routes also cross into Kazakhstan).
There is also a train from Kharkov in Ukraine to Tashkent, and it crosses through both Russia and Kazakhstan; visas are needed for both countries.
There is a run-down, little-used rail line into Tajikistan that is entirely dependent on the current political situation between the two countries. In theory you can travel on the Moscow – Dushanbe train which passes through Uzbekistan, or you can take the train to Termez and get off at Kumkurgan, from where you can take a taxi to the border with Tajikistan. There is also a spur line to the Fergana Valley in the east of the country, which leads to Osh in Kyrgyzstan. It is possible to connect to China through Almaty; and to Iran and the Middle East (via Turkmenistan). Foreigners have to pay for rail tickets in hard currency, preferably US Dollars, but it is still a cheap option by Western standards.
Uzbekistan has road connections to all its neighbours. A Friendship Bridge links Afghanistan with Termiz in Uzbekistan (Termiz is a small city of little interest sitting at the southern most point of Uzbekistan), which while open to tourists, can sometimes close due to security concerns. It is advisable to check with a travel agent or locals before setting off.
The neighbouring country of Kyrgyzstan, popular with trekkers and mountaineers, offers three main border crossings into Uzbekistan: Uchkurgan, Dustlyk (Dostyk) and Khanabad (not to be confused with the ‘Khanabad’ in Afghanistan). The third is the most problematic. The region remains conservative and sees very few travellers.
Security can be tight at all crossings; you need to fill out customs forms and there can be long waits, so try to arrive early in the morning. Buses do travel between Tashkent and Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) but as they pass through Kazakhstan, you need to arrange a Kazakh visa in advance. Visas are not available at any of these land borders.
For crossing into Tajikistan, the best, most scenic route, is between Samarkand and Penjikent (although this border often closes due to political tensions and there is no public transport). Taxis, which are readily available, are the only way to cross. Alternatively, the Oybek (Uzbekistan) border crossing, (a one-hour drive to Khujand in Tajikistan), is easier and is usually open. The last option is Denau (a two-hour drive from Termiz in Uzbekistan) -Tursanzade (a 45-minute drive to Dushanbe, capital of Tajikistan). Again, arrive early, be patient and arrive with the correct visas.
Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan are also linked by road. Most locals do this journey by shared taxi. The two easiest border crossings are the crossing that joins Bukhara with Turkmenabat and the Khiva/Urgench (the ‘Shavat to Dashoguz’ crossing). These borders have lengthy lunch breaks, and the Turkmen authorities will charge each traveller around US$12 ‘entry tax’, which must be paid in US Dollars only.
Kazakhstan offers two main entry points: the Chernyaevka crossing between Tashkent and Shymkent (easy, but long waiting times) and the more remote crossing between Karakalpakstan and Beyneu in western Kazakhstan.
Most crossings in Central Asia open and close regularly without warning; the best advice is to check with a local travel agent or to ask around before setting off. Always travel with US Dollars just in case - for example, if you happen to lose a declaration form on exiting Uzbekistan, a small US$10 bribe will smooth things over. Expect to have to cobble together a combination of minibuses and taxis to get to and from all border points.
Uzbekistan is doubly landlocked. There are no sea ports.
Uzbekistan’s main river port is Termez on the Amu Darya river. This is not of interest to visitors as it serves as an important transfer point for humanitarian supplies entering Afghanistan.
By Joan Torres 35 Comments Last updated on May 2, 2023
Once a hermetic country with very strict visa policies for foreigners, Uzbekistan has opened its borders to show the world the majesty of what used to be the core and center of the ancient Silk Road, a country filled with impressive shrines, mosques and perfectly shaped old cities.
Uzbekistan is, by far, the most tourist-friendly country in Central Asia and an unmissable destination for sightseeing city lovers.
However, this ex-Soviet Republic has many bureaucratic and cultural peculiarities, which you are highly recommended to know well in advance.
In this Uzbekistan travel guide, we will go through all of them, so here is a list of useful tips for traveling to Uzbekistan.
In 2019, requirements for traveling to Uzbekistan were eased, when they finally offered a 30-day free visa on arrival for most nationalities.
This VOA is valid in both airports and land borders and it applies to all Western nationalities, EXCEPT for the USA. Here you can see the updated list.
Those nationalities which can’t get a VOA – and that includes nationals from the USA and India – can apply for an e-visa.
It’s a very easy process which only costs 20USD, takes 2-3 working days and this is the official website.
By default, you will get a 30-day visa, but it is also possible to apply for a multiple-entry visa. Unlike some years ago, the entry date is not fixed but you can enter any day you like within a 90-day period.
Apparently, the system has issues with some email domains, the photo format and, basically, it has quite a few bugs. Nowadays, however, most travelers do apply successfully, and all common issues and tips are well-explained here.
In the unlikely case the e-visa doesn’t work for you, you will have to go to the embassy, so I recommend starting to apply well-in-advance.
Typically, it would be a 1-week process in which you would need a passport copy, 2 passport photos, your hotel reservation, and your visa application form (printed and filled out).
By the way, one relevant difference vs the e-visa is that, with an embassy visa, the entry and exit dates are fixed, so you need to state the specific days you will be traveling in Uzbekistan and you can’t modify them. This means that you can’t enter before the entry date or leave after the exit date you specified.
For more information and details, read this post: Getting a visa for Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan is synonymous with the Silk Road, a country which is home to the three most important Silk Road cities, Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. Timeless mosques and historical buildings define a characteristic skyline in every city, Uzbekistan has been the main stopover for countless civilizations traveling east and west, while exchanging goods, ideas, and knowledge. Traveling in Uzbekistan and strolling downs its bazaars and old cities is like going back to the past.
From the imposing Registan to the cute, old city of Khiva, Uzbekistan is the perfect destination for travelers interested in stunning Islamic architecture.
Who would guess that the streets of the ancient Silk Road cities of Uzbekistan were filled with plenty of touristic shops, selling things from typical souvenirs to traditional local handicrafts, something unseen in Central Asia.
While the most common tourist in Kyrgyzstan is a young backpacker, the main tourist in Uzbekistan is a 50-80-year old person who travels in a tour group. Actually, during high season, there are tens of groups all over the cities.
In places like Tashkent, Moynaq and the Aral Sea and the Fergana Valley, we barely saw any tourist and the local interactions were much more rewarding.
Internet is not as good as in Kyrgyzstan or Kazakhstan but it’s definitely better than Tajikistan. Most hotels will have decent Wi-Fi and 3G works perfectly well throughout the country.
Get Beeline, with which, for a couple of USD, you will get plenty of data and calls. It is very easy to buy a SIM Card and all you need is your passport.
If you want to learn more about VPN, check: Why you need a VPN for traveling.
In Uzbekistan, they use the Uzbek SUM (UZS). The currency value is extremely low and approximately:
1 USD = 11,314 UZS
Some years ago, ATMs in Uzbekistan didn’t accept foreign cards but that has drastically changed now. There are loads of ATMs that you can use absolutely everywhere, even in markets.
Bear in mind, however, that with an international card, in some ATMs you can only withdraw USD, which you need to exchange at the bank. This way, they can charge you commission twice and by the way, when you withdraw, the commission is 1%. In practice nevertheless, this is not being the case anymore and today, more and more ATMs do give Uzbek SUM.
By the way, bring a spare backpack for the cashSometimes, whatever quantity you change, they will give you all the money in 1,000UZS notes, meaning that you will be carrying 3 kilograms of cash. It’s very inconvenient.
You can change money in most banks – Some years ago, the official bank rate was almost 100% lower than on the black market, so nobody wanted to exchange money in banks. This changed and, finally, the official rate has gone up to its actual value.
This means that you can now exchange money in banks, which can easily be found all over the cities. The best part is that some banks give you bigger notes, so there is no need to carry ten packs of cash.
You can still get money in the black market – However, I don’t recommend it, as they are the ones who always give you smaller notes and, when you count them, you always notice that there are one or two notes missing.
Traveling in Uzbekistan is not as cheap as in Kyrgyzstan or Tajikistan but, still, it’s very affordable. Typically:
Most restaurants charge for service, which ranges from 10 to 20%, depending on the restaurant.
Travel insurance for UzbekistanGet IATI Insurance: 5% discount + long-term plans to travel around the StansGet your discount when buying through this link
Uzbekistan has the most expensive flights in all Central Asia and the reason is that the airport taxes are extremely high. Apparently, along with a more liberal visa regime, the Government is planning to reverse it in order to encourage more tourism.
If you are on a budget and have enough time, you could fly to Almaty, Bishkek or Dushanbe and then enter Uzbekistan overland. From Europe, flights there are surprisingly cheap, especially to Bishkek.
If you are traveling in Iran, there are very cheap flights from Tehran to Aktau, a city in western Kazakhstan, very close to the Uzbek border.
If you are traveling in Azerbaijan, you can even take a ferry to Aktau or fly there, which is much quicker and even cheaper.
Personally, I started with a 2-month itinerary in Kyrgyzstan, traveled in Tajikistan through the Pamir Highway and the Wakhan Valley, and entered Uzbekistan through the Fergana Valley.
Uzbekistan shares a border with:
All borders are easy to cross, as long as you have a valid visa, especially for Turkmenistan and Afghanistan.
Most borders are open to overland travelers – As long as you have the visa, you can enter or exit Uzbekistan from any country, but just bear in mind that some borders are only open to nationals, while others may close temporarily.
However, all countries will have, at least, one or two entry points always open. For the latest updated information on border policy, check the Caravanistan website.
They will go through all your stuff – Especially laptops, phones, and cameras.
With the exponential tourism increase, the guards don’t really go through your stuff anymore.
Don’t bring any sensitive material – By sensitive I mean porn or any politically sensitive photos, including Governmental buildings or military stuff. If you happen to have some, upload them to the cloud or hide them very well in your computer.
However, at some border crossings, it’s not as bad as people say – I heard horror stories about Uzbek customs but, when I crossed from Tajikistan to the Fergana Valley, they just checked the photos of my DSLR camera and it seemed they were more looking at my pictures for fun than looking for sensitive photos, as the official was smiling and calling some of his colleagues to check them out.
They are also looking for drugs – And especially anything containing codeine. They will definitely, go through all your meds and, apparently, even if you have prescription pills containing codeine, they won’t allow you to enter with them and you may get in real trouble.
You will have to declare all your money, both entering and exiting – When you enter, you need to fill in a form, stating how much are you traveling with. You are supposed to keep this form because, when you leave, they will compare it with how much money you have left.
If you happen to have the same amount of money or more, they will assume that you worked there, so you might get into some problems. However, this rule may not apply in some borders because I left through Kazakhstan.
1 – Uzbekistan is an ex-Soviet Republic – Which got its independence in 1991, after the USSR dissolution.
2 – Most people are Uzbeks – But, as in the whole Central Asia, you also find plenty of people from their neighboring countries, including Russians, Kyrgyz, Kazakhs, and Tajiks. People in Uzbekistan are so ethnically mixed but, whereas Kyrgyz and Kazakh people have stronger Mongolian features, and Tajiks and Turkmens more of a Persian look, I would say that Uzbeks are something in between.
3 – The official language is Uzbek – Which is a Turkic language, but most people also speak Russian as a second language.
4 – Learn some Russian – They use the Cyrillic alphabet and practically nobody speaks English, except in the touristic parts. Some basic words to get around will prove immensely useful.
5 – They are Sunni Muslims but not really – Officially, most people are Sunni Muslims, the Russian population (10%) being Christian Orthodox. However, like all ex-Soviet countries, religion is not a big deal and most people don’t really follow Islam. If I had to compare it to the rest of Central Asia, I would say that religion in Uzbekistan is practiced more than in Kyrgyzstan or Kazakhstan but less than in Tajikistan.
6 – No real dress code for women – Many Uzbek women are veiled but it’s mostly for cultural reasons, rather than religious. Except in some parts of the Fergana Valley, women can go as they please, within certain common-sense limitations, of course.
7 – Is Islam partially forbidden? – The Fergana Valley in Uzbekistan is home to the most radical Islamic group in Central Asia, an organization which even operated in Afghanistan under the Taliban. The Uzbek Government has tried hard to eradicate this group and, from what I heard, it has put some limitations on the way people practice Islam. For example, during prayer time, you will never hear the mosque’s speakers. I was told that this is one of several governmental measures.
8 – It’s a dictatorship – The first President of Uzbekistan ruled from its independence, in 1991, to 2016, when he died. He ruled under an authoritarian regime and didn’t forge many good international relationships. The new President is trying to change this though, the growth of tourism being one of the many new policies.
9 – But people don’t really care about politics – Uzbeks told me that the only thing they care about is inflation and nobody is interested in politics. There is no freedom of speech and you can’t say anything bad about the president or any governmental organization. They are OK with it so, according to them, a revolution will not happen any time soon.
10 – The cotton crisis – Uzbekistan’s main economical pillar is the cotton industry and you will see plenty of cotton fields all over the country. Being so dependant on cotton has led to several crises and problems, the most dramatic one being the destruction of the Aral Sea in Uzbekistan. In Nukus, I met the European Union delegate in Uzbekistan, who told me that, with the new President, they are strongly trying to diversify the economy.
Plov, plov, plov – Welcome to the world capital of plov, a Central Asian dish consisting of fried rice in lamb fat, meat and different vegetables. There are many kinds of plov and it varies by region. Uzbek people find it a real delicacy and they love it so much that, in the capital Tashkent, they even have a Central Asian Plov Center, a massive building serving only plov. After more than 5 months in Central Asia, I really hated plov.
But typical Central Asian food is also available – Laghman (noodles soup), manti (dumplings), shashlik (kebab) are popular dishes which you can eat when traveling in Kyrgyzstan or Tajikistan.
More good restaurant options than in neighboring countries – Since it’s more touristic, you also find a wider range of options, especially serving international cuisine. For me, that was really an edge, especially after traveling in Central Asia for such a long time.
Alcohol is widely available – Vodka, beer and everything you want!
And local wine, as well! – Uzbekistan is the largest wine producer in Central Asia and its wine is not that bad, actually!
If you are a vegetarian, you are fucked – Well, not fucked but local cuisine mostly consists of meat and sometimes it’s even hard to find chicken. However, like I said, in the touristic places there are several options and, on most menus there are vegetarian options made ad-hoc for tourists. Additionally, your best bet will be the local markets, where you can find all sorts of vegetables, as well as Korean salads.
Loads of fruit! – Most of the fruit is grown in the Fergana Valley, it’s absolutely delicious and there is a lot of variety. When I was there in October, it was grapes and melons season!
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Trains are the way to travel in Uzbekistan. Most cities are connected by train, they run very regularly and are very comfortable.
Some tips:
It’s recommended to book your train tickets in advance – Especially for long-distance trains. You can book them at the train station itself and always remember to bring your passport.
There are different kinds of train – There is a regular, modern train and the high-speed one. They are built by a Spanish company, so they have many similarities to the AVE and other Spanish trains. Furthermore, there is the Russian train, which is the classic old one from the Soviet Union times.
You must try the Soviet train at least once – Traveling long distance on a Russian train is an experience by itself. I took it from Samarkand, all the way west to Kazakhstan, on a 32-hour journey. You are most likely to be the only foreigner on board and everybody is super friendly with you.
Also common and really cheap. Between cities, it’s common to travel in shared taxis, which cost even less than a train.
Only in Tashkent, there is metro and it was inspired by the one in Moscow or Saint Petersburg and it’s a delightful masterpiece. For more information, read: Places to visit in Tashkent.
- From Almaty (Kazakhstan) to Tashkent by bus and train.
- From Shymkent (Kazakhstan) to Tashkent by bus and train.
- From Osh (Kyrgyzstan) to Tashkent by shared taxi.
- From Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) to Tashkent by bus.
