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On your list of “Fun Things to Do This Weekend,” caulking your bathtub probably isn’t one of them. However, this home maintenance chore is essential. “Caulk prevents water from going into the cracks and gaps where tile or walls meet the tub,” says Heath Belcher, bath remodel production manager for American Standard. “But over time, it needs replaced when it becomes stained or starts splitting and peeling away, which will allow water to penetrate behind the tub.” And because mildewed caulk is just plain gross, new caulk makes your bathroom look fresh and clean again.

You can clean caulk with a solution of 50/50 bleach and water if it begins to show signs of mildew. But if it’s stained, it’s time to redo the job. Ditto if there are cracks or breaks in the caulk. You’ll probably need to re-caulk every few years, or more, in bathrooms that are used daily. Make sure to set aside a few hours so you don’t feel rushed or get frustrated.

Whether you’re doing around a bathtub, shower stall, or sink, the method is the same. Here’s everything you need to know about how to caulk a bathtub.

Look for silicone-based caulk for wet areas, says Belcher. Silicone caulk resists mold and mildew and is flexible so you can get it in all the nooks and corners around your tub. It’s not paintable and should not be used outside of wet areas; there are other kinds of caulk and different techniques you must use to seal around other areas such as windows, for example. Do not use latex caulk, which does not keep water out. “Latex caulk absorbs water, so you’re just pushing it into the wall,” says Belcher.

For tile surfaces, use siliconized caulk, which is matched to the grout color and contains additional polymers. For acrylic surrounds, use 100 percent silicone caulk. You can buy the 10-ounce tube that you will use with a caulking gun, or purchase the small 3-ounce tube that you squeeze out by hand. It’s personal preference because they’re the same product, says Belcher. When buying a gun, look for one that says “dripless” so that when you stop pulling the trigger, it stops flowing and a big blob doesn’t ooze out.

This is definitely the messiest part of the project, and it’s going to take some time to do it right. If you’re removing caulk from a tile surface, use a razor blade scraper, which has a blade with a handle. For softer surfaces such as fiberglass or acrylic tubs, use a plastic scraper, often called a 5 in 1 tool, so you don’t cause scratches. Scrape in two directions to get out the old caulk. You absolutely, positively must remove every last bit because you need a clean surface for the new caulk to adhere. Also, if you leave behind any mildewed caulk, it will just grow through the new caulk, says Belcher.

Before you take the next step, feel around and make sure the substrate, or backing that the tile or fiberglass is attached to, is not wet or soft. If it is, you’ve got a leak issue on your hands and must attend to this before replacing the caulk. Consult a plumber or repair service before proceeding because you can’t just cover over the problem, says Belcher.

Use paper towels and denatured or isopropyl alcohol to wipe down the area where you removed the old caulk. The excess alcohol evaporates so you won’t need to clean it with anything else. If there’s a stubborn silicone film or bits remaining, be patient and just keep rubbing it clean with alcohol.

Cut off the tip of the caulk tube about 1/8-inch wider than you want the bead of caulk. On vertical surfaces, your bead of caulk should be about 3/16-inch wide, and on horizontal surfaces where the tile meets the tub, it should be about ¼-inch wide. Use a razor and cut on an angle, or some caulking guns have a little tool attached you can use. Less is more, so cut a tiny bit off first if you’re not sure how much it will flow; you can always go back and cut more later, says Belcher.

Use both hands and put your dominant hand on the trigger, while the other hand holds the caulking gun in place. Hold the tube at a 45-degree angle and work from top to bottom of the tub or surround. Then do the horizontal surfaces. Silicone caulk will set in about 10 to 15 minutes, so do one small section at a time, then smooth out the caulk. If you wait too long, you’ll get ripples in it when you try to go back to smooth, says Belcher. If using the small tube by hand, hold it at the same angle and follow the same steps.

Use a smoothing tool which allows you to hold it at the perfect angle to push the caulk into the gap and create a straight line all the way across. It’s tempting to use your finger, but that makes a concave depression, which will hold water. While that’s okay on vertical surfaces, you don’t want to create a place for water to pool on horizontal surfaces so it becomes an ideal setup for mildew to grow, says Belcher. Caulk and smooth small sections at a time, and wipe the smoothing tool off with a paper towel after every 6 to 8 inches. Clean up any mess with a paper towel and alcohol.

If you’re not confident about your ability to keep the caulk line straight and neat (without leaving behind a film of excess caulk), apply blue painter’s tape on both sides of the area where you need to caulk, leaving the gap you want. Then apply your caulk in sections, smooth with the tool, and clean up excess with alcohol.

Silicone caulk is typically dry in about 30 minutes, but it needs to cure for about a week before you clean the bathtub or you may damage the new caulk. This project will cost about $50 (caulking gun, good quality caulk, and a smoothing tool set). It will take a few hours, but the nice, clean results are totally worth the effort!

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