What should i do if my fridge isn't cold?

If none of these issues exist, then it’s time to troubleshoot for some more complicated, but still fixable, problems.

Here are five other common reasons why your fridge may not be cooling, and how to address them.

There are coils located under or behind the fridge that cool and condense the refrigerant. Sometimes so much dust or dirt collects on these coils that the heat can no longer be released efficiently, and it winds up in your fridge instead.

Clean off the debris with a handheld vacuum or special refrigerator coil brush and see if that resolves the problem.

The condenser fan is situated in a cabinet at the bottom of the fridge, near the compressor and condenser coils (note that fridge models with the coils on the back instead of the bottom won’t have a fan).

The fan’s job is to keep the compressor and coils cool, so if it breaks down, the fridge will begin to heat up. Check to see if dust or debris is present on the fan blades (which would keep them from spinning properly), and if so, gently wipe the blades clean with a towel. If the blades don’t rotate at all, the fan’s motor may need to be replaced.

There’s another set of coils, called the evaporator coils, in a panel behind the freezer. Refrigerant runs through these coils and turns into gas, making them cold.

The evaporator fan’s job is to draw the cool air from these coils to circulate throughout the entire unit—first through the freezer and then the refrigerator (or fresh food compartment). If the evaporator fan motor is broken, then cool air won’t circulate properly.

Sometimes you wind up with a freezer that’s still pretty cold (because that’s near where the coils are), but a fresh food compartment that isn’t cold at all (because the cool air isn’t getting pushed there). If the evaporator fan is the problem, you’ll likely need to replace the fan’s motor.

As mentioned above, the evaporator fan draws cool air from the evaporator coils and moves it throughout the entire unit, including the freezer. But if the fan stops working, the coils may frost over.

Remove the back panel in your freezer to see if the coils are frosted. If so, empty out the freezer and fridge, unplug the unit, and let the coils thaw for a day or two.

If the fan has been working just fine and the coils are frosted over for some other indeterminate reason, you may need to hire a professional. The frosted-over coils’ cause can range from a broken defrost thermostat to a malfunctioning defrost heater.

The air inlet damper is located between the freezer and the fresh food compartment, controlling the amount of cold air that passes from the former to the latter. If the damper breaks or gets blocked, the cold air won’t circulate the way it’s supposed to.

Inspect the damper to determine whether it is opening and closing properly. If it isn’t, you’ll need to replace it with a new one.

If your fridge is too warm, it’s not just your foods that will perish. Spoiled food can be a serious health risk to you and your entire family. A warm fridge can cause wasted food, thrown out too soon, and overall reduces the health and sustainability of your home. Fortunately, it’s possible to fix a warm refrigerator without calling for repairs. By going through a few practical troubleshooting steps, you can usually find the cause of the fridge warming and resolve it. Here are the steps in sequence.

If your fridge isn’t cold enough, always start by making sure it’s on. It seems obvious, but without power, there’s no way your fridge will be preserving any food.  So do a basic check of function and your own sanity. Does the light come on when you open the door? Do you hear a whirring or fan-noise? Is there heat coming from the back or floor vent? If the answer to all of these questions is “No,” then the fridge isn’t on. It’s either unplugged, the breaker flipped, or an essential power system problem.

If the answer to only some of those questions is “yes,” you may have an electrical component problem and will need to investigate further. But let’s keep focusing on the warm-fridge problem, assuming your fridge is on, mostly functional, and at least attempting to cool.

Since the fridge is on, the next step is to check the temperature setting dial. It’s pretty common for this dial to be bumped or mis-set at some point. This is a common cause for both frozen and spoiled milk.  Look to see if the dial is turned to the coldest setting. If it is, move on to the next troubleshooting option. If it’s not all-the-way cold yet, start by putting a metal thermometer into the fridge, if there isn’t one already.

Whatever the dial says, your fridge should be about 38-41 degrees F. Take note of the temperature and then turn the dial colder. Check back in two to five hours and see if your fridge has reached the optimal temperature window. If it doesn’t, at the coldest temperature, move onward. If it takes the coldest temperature to get to 40 degrees F, consider trying the other methods as well.

Your fridge may be cooling effectively, but losing cold to an unsealed door. Fridge door gaskets (the rubber strip that seals the fridge) can get dirty, they can get old, and they can dry out. Your door may also not seal because it’s propped open by an object inside.

First, check whether the door is closing completely. Tug on the fridge door gently. If you don’t hear/feel an unsticking, your door likely isn’t sealing in the first place. Then touch your light. If it’s hot (and nearby items are warm) when the door has been closed, then the door switch never activated, and the door hasn’t been closing.

Next, check the seal. If it’s dirty, wipe it down with warm water and soap and/or vinegar. If it’s damaged or warped, it may need to be replaced. Otherwise, apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly (like vaseline) to soften the gasket and create a better seal. This will help your door stay closed and contain the cold.

The cold in your fridge compartment comes from the condenser coils via the freezer. First, the freezer is cooled, then some cold air is blown through a vent between the freezer and fridge compartments. If that vent is blocked, on either side, then your fridge won’t get cold enough, and your freezer might be freezing overtime. So find those vents in your model of fridge and what’s stored on both sides.

Clear away boxes and other bulky items that can effectively block that vent. Don’t store large boxes near the vent, or upright bags that might seal the vent. Move any such items away from the vents. Instead, store things like produce or stacked tupperware that leaves plenty of room for airflow.

Some freezers build layers of frost over all walls and items. This is usually a sign of malfunction, of either the defrost cycle or the vent fan. However, if the vent is blocked by items (or a broken fan), then frost might also build up over the vent, blocking cold airflow. While clearing your vent of items, also consider removing ice-based obstructions. Inspect your freezer for frost buildup and either knock-away blocking ice or go through a defrosting procedure.

By removing everything in your freezer, it’s easy to quickly remove all ice with warm water caught by absorbent towels.

The final task that home fridge-owners can handle on their own is gently cleaning the condenser coils. The way the fridge works is by activating coolant fluid inside condenser coils. This is where the cold comes from. Room-temperature air is then blown over those coils, making cold air that is then cycled through the freezer and fridge.

But that cold air often includes dust, and condenser coils condensate, meaning water collects on the cold coil surface. Dust sticks to the water and eventually builds a blanket over the coils. That dust blanket prevents the condenser-cold from cooling the cold cycling air. By cleaning away the dust, you can significantly improve the cooling efficiency of your fridge.

Every fridge accesses condenser coils differently. The access may be behind your fridge, accessed from the lower panel, or through the back of the freezer compartment itself. When you find the coils, clean them with a brush or wipe them very gently with a towel to clear away the layers of dust. If your fridge has an air filter, change it to slow the buildup of the next layer of dust.

—If you have taken all these steps and your refrigerator is still running under-powered, it’s time to call for repairs. A technician can perform multimeter tests on the electronic components and hunt down your problem. It might be a broken fan, a blown interior fuse, or even a loose wire. For more information about refrigerator repair or to schedule a consultation, contact us today!

A: While some refrigerator cooling problems require professional assistance, don’t call the repairman just yet. You might be able to fix it yourself. It’s certainly worth a shot, too, since the average professional service call can run $150 or more.

Start by noting strange refrigerator noises like scraping, which might indicate a problem with the condenser fan. Check to see if the freezer is working but not the fridge, as it may only be the refrigerator compartment on the fritz. Depending on the cause of your fridge not cooling or freezer not freezing, the following tips might help.

A power cord that has worked loose in its outlet or a flipped breaker will shut the entire fridge down. Here’s how to troubleshoot this common issue:

When dealing with any brands of refrigerators not getting cold, there might be simple, brand-specific solutions. Peruse your appliance’s user manual for relevant refrigerator troubleshooting steps, tips, and error codes.

Common causes for a refrigerator not cooling likely addressed by your user manual may include:

New refrigerators usually come preset at temperatures of around 37 degrees Fahrenheit for the fridge compartment and 0 degrees Fahrenheit for the freezer compartment, the ideal fridge temperature settings.

Thermostat dials inside the fridge and freezer can be accidentally adjusted when inserting and removing items, though. Exterior digital thermostats can also be inadvertently changed by little fingers or by leaning or brushing against the control panel. Many digital panels come with the ability to lock the settings for just those reasons. Whether the temperature controls are located inside or outside, reset them to the settings recommended by your fridge’s user manual if need be.

If you don’t trust the temperature readings you’re getting, or if your old fridge lacks a thermostat, consider purchasing a low-cost refrigerator thermostat to test the temperature yourself.

If the magnetic seals or door gaskets on the fridge doors are defective, cool air could be escaping the appliance. Refrigerator door gaskets can grow brittle over time, reducing their ability to form a tight seal. You can test your fridge’s seals using just a dollar bill.

Replacing the gaskets is relatively easy for DIYers. Refrigerator door gasket prices range from around $25 to $85—or more, depending on the brand and model. Check your owner’s manual to ensure you pick the correct replacement gaskets, and look for detailed installation directions in the manual or replacement gasket package’s instructions.

A relatively new fridge with good door seals can still leak and fail the above dollar-bill test when the appliance isn’t level. If a refrigerator is leaning in the wrong direction, its doors may not seal tightly enough to keep cold air in.

Set a carpenter’s level on top of the fridge. If the bubble is not centered in the glass tube, adjust the refrigerator’s front legs. Most refrigerator legs can be adjusted with an Allen wrench or adjustable pliers. Consult your owner’s manual for detailed instructions on how to level your appliance.

Your fridge contains condenser coils filled with refrigerant. Over time, these coils—which are not in a sealed unit—can become caked with dust, hair, or pet fur, which reduces their cooling ability. Fortunately, cleaning refrigerator coils is simple, requiring only a $10 condenser coil brush and a vacuum to suck up loosened dust. If you find significant buildup on the coils, clean them once or twice annually to keep your fridge cooling properly.

Cold air circulates through vents running between the refrigerator’s freezer and refrigerator compartments. If an item blocks that airflow, it can result in warmer temperatures in the fridge compartment. Depending on your fridge’s brand and model, its vents could be located along the back or sides of the interior walls. Check your owner’s manual if you have trouble locating them, and double-check your unit for these issues:

You’ll know the cause of a fridge not getting cold when your home loses power, and your refrigerator may take a while to reset and cool after an outage. Some refrigerators might need extra user input after a power outage, so refer to your fridge’s manual for specific steps on how to get yours back up and running once power is restored.

If none of the above refrigerator troubleshooting tips work, the cause might be a defective mechanical component. While it isn’t too difficult to replace some refrigerator components, pinpointing the exact problem can be tricky and require specialized equipment.

The refrigerator compressor, compressor fan, or defrost thermostat might need replacing, which should be undertaken by a licensed professional. If your fridge is still under warranty, note that DIY part replacements may void the warranty. Some service and parts might be so costly that you’re better off replacing a refrigerator that’s stopped cooling, but that should be a last-ditch option.

With a little luck and troubleshooting, you can figure out why your fridge is not cooling and potentially solve the problem with a simple fix, like thinning out items to avoid airflow blockage, checking that the appliance has power, or adjusting temperature settings and model-specific functions. You also might learn how to clean refrigerator condenser coils or replace door gaskets on your own in the process. In most cases, though, leave mechanical part replacements to an appliance service pro.

If all else fails, you may find that it’s time to replace your fridge. To avoid that, do all you can to maintain this important kitchen workhorse and extend how long your refrigerator lasts.

The above tips can help when a refrigerator is not cooling, but you might still have one of these common questions.

If the freezer works but the fridge is not cold, it could be that the damper control that lets cold air into the fridge is broken. The same goes for the fridge’s evaporator fan motor or evaporator coils, upon which frost can build up. A defective thermistor, which monitors the fridge’s temperature, might be the issue. Or it could be a simpler problem, like blocked ventilation to the fridge compartment or worn-out door gaskets letting out cold air.

During peak usage times, like holidays or when having company over, lower the refrigerator temperature by about 1 degree Fahrenheit to account for more items and time spent with the fridge door open.

Compressors are what make refrigerators’ trademark humming sound. If you hear your fridge compressor running but not cooling, pull the unit away from the wall and unplug it. Search the user manual for how to activate “Off” or “Zero” settings and set your fridge and freezer to those settings accordingly. Plug in the unit back and set the compartments back to the correct temperature settings. Give the fridge about 24 hours to cool.

• Inspect the Power Situation. If your fridge isn't cold enough, always start by making sure it's on.
• Turn Up the Dial.
• Check the Door Seal.
• Give the Vents Breathing Space.
• Defrost the Freezer.
• Clean the Condenser Coils.

If your fridge is not cooling, the air vents may be blocked. Blocked air vents can prevent cool air from filtering inside the appliance. Check the vents inside your refrigerator and freezer and remove any items that may be blocking them.