which geckos like to be held?

The ultimate geckos that are great choices for a gecko enthusiast are:

Let’s begin our adventure with one of the easiest geckos to keep. The leopard gecko (E. macularius) is the gecko gold standard in herpetoculture, with a long list of reasons why it is an ideal beginner gecko. Many of the basic principles of keeping leopard geckos apply to all of our ultimate geckos, so we will discuss them in detail here.

Ranging from western India to Afghanistan and Iraq, the sturdy leopard gecko is recommended as a first gecko because of its sturdiness and the ease of care that is necessary to keep it healthy. It is a nocturnal, terrestrial lizard of considerable size, measuring up to 10 inches (though 7 to 8 inches on average) and weighing up to 150 grams (with an average of about 50 grams). Males are typically larger than females and are heavier boned. A leopard gecko’s life span is long, ranging from 15 to up to 30 or more years in captivity!

The leopard gecko’s size, tolerance of handling, and gentle disposition makes it an ideal pet for children ages 8 years old and up. There is a dizzying array of morphs available, exhibiting many colors, patterns and even different eye colors (with red eyes appearing in the RAPTOR/APTOR strains by Ron Tremper). Leopard gecko tails do come off when exposed to stressful situations, such as an aggressive terrarium-mate or rough handling. They do regenerate in a typical “turnip” shape that is plump, yet different looking than the original tail.

Leopard gecko setups can consist of a glass terrarium with a screen top or well-ventilated plastic tubs, such as those manufactured by Sterilite. Terrariums should be 10 gallons or larger and need to be at least 1 foot tall. Plastic tubs should be at least 16-quart capacity, with a well-fitted lid (solid plastic lids that may come with the tubs should be modified to allow proper ventilation). Setups of this size can house an adult combination of a male and two females, or three adult females as long as they are of similar size. As with most geckos, males cannot be put together because they may fight to the death. Greater numbers of juveniles can be housed in these setups as long as they, too, are of similar size.

Read More: Leopard Gecko Heating and Care

Each gecko should have its own secure, close-fitting hiding place (a good rule of thumb for all geckos). At least one hide must be available in the warm area of the setup and another in the cool area (see below). Also provide at least one moist hide, with moist vermiculite and/or moss inside to assist the gecko with shedding. Terrarium furniture may consist of rocks or pieces of wood, anchored as necessary with glue to prevent tipping and crushing of the geckos. Small live or plastic plants may also be used. Substrate can be simple, such as newspaper, paper towels or reptile carpet. Avoid ingestible substrate, such as sand and pea gravel. Leopard geckos are curious and may ingest more than they can digest.

The leopard gecko terrarium should have a basking site at one end that reaches 86 to 88 degrees Fahrenheit, with a cool area at the other end in the 70-degree range. Temperature can drop into the low 70s at night. Several options are available to heat the terrarium. Infrared or low-wattage incandescent lights are good choices for heating as well as UTHs (under-tank heaters).

Ultraviolet lighting is optional for this nocturnal lizard, though it can be used if live plants are in the terrarium. Lights should be turned off at night.

Leopard geckos are exclusively insectivorous. They should be fed a diet of commercially available insects, such as mealworms, super worms and crickets. Crickets should be 90 to 95 percent of the gecko’s head size — an adult should be fed an approximately 3-week-old or 3/4-inch cricket. Wax worms should be given only occasionally because of their high fat content. Insects should be gut-loaded (fed nutrients) and supplemented with a reptile-specific supplement containing calcium, vitamin D3 and other essential vitamins and minerals, such as phosphorus and vitamin A (or the pre-cursors to make vitamin A). Provide a shallow water dish for drinking.

The African fat-tail(H. caudicinctus) may be considered the leopard gecko’s cousin from Africa. They share many characteristics, such as size, shape, weight, terrestrial and nocturnal behaviors, and a long life span of 15 or more years. The fat-tail’s natural wild form is a banded or striped-and-banded morph. In recent years, morphs have increased to almost as large a number as their leopard gecko cousin’s, including albino, patternless, white-out, Zulu, zero, oreo and ghost, to name a few.

Fat-tails, too, are easy to keep and it’s fairly easy to find captive-bred specimens. They are also mild-mannered and tolerant of handling.

The terrarium setup for an African fat-tailed gecko can be the same as that described for the leopard gecko, though the moist hide box is even more important for a fat-tail because it is from a moister environment than the leopard gecko. A daily misting is required to achieve a proper humidity level of 70 to 80 percent. A moisture-retaining substrate, such as peat moss or orchid bark (medium grade to prevent accidental ingestion) can be used to increase humidity.

The African fat-tail’s feeding regimen is the same as the leopard gecko’s, except this gecko seems to prefer crickets over mealworms. It may also accept commercially available cockroaches, such as Dubia or Madagascar hissing roaches

The crested gecko (R. ciliatus) is also a great entry-level gecko with many ultimate-gecko qualities, such as beauty (many morphs), longevity (15 to 20 years) and ease of care.

Once thought extinct, this charming, soft-skinned gecko with the big eyelashes appeared during a rainstorm in New Caledonia in 1994 and pleasantly surprised everyone! Crested geckos have gentle dispositions that allow them to be handled, and they are hardy, making then a good choice for a first gecko.

The crested gecko is an arboreal, nocturnal gecko with a wide body and large head. Specimens measure approximately 4 to 5 inches without the tail, and can weigh an average of 35 grams when they are sexually mature at 15 to 20 months. Crested geckos’ tails do come off when they are exposed to a stressful situation, and they do not regenerate. Those missing their tails are known in the hobby as “frog butts” because their rear ends look like a frog’s. Tailless crested geckos can live perfectly normal lives, so there is no cause for concern if one’s tail is lost.

The arboreal, tropical crested gecko needs a vertically oriented terrarium. An adult should be kept in a 20-gallon terrarium or larger, and multiple females may be kept with one male, but not with two males because they will fight. Several manufacturers offer tropical kits that include a suitably tall terrarium (18 inches long, 18 inches wide and 24 inches tall) with front-opening doors. They also include accessories such as temperature and humidity (hygrometer) measuring devices, substrate, food and water dishes, artificial plants and foam terrarium walls. If you prefer the do-it-yourself method, buy an arboreal terrarium without the kit and create a custom jungle look with real plants and vines (there are also nice artificial vines available, as well as real grapevine), bamboo, and cork bark walls and tubes.

Hiding places are important, and bamboo and cork bark tubes are a favorite of crested geckos. At least one long piece of bamboo, cork bark or PVC pipe should be placed diagonally across the terrarium. Substrate can be a peat moss and/or orchid bark. If you use orchid bark, the pieces must be larger than the gecko’s mouth to avoid accidental ingestion.

You may also go the simplistic route and use an all-screen cage or 20-gallon plastic Sterilite-type tub with a screen top. Some crested gecko enthusiasts do not use substrate with these more basic setups, as substrate is not critical to an arboreal gecko that spends little time on the ground.

A temperature range in the upper 70s to low 80s during the day works best. Temperatures can drop into the low 70s at night. If you need to heat the terrarium to reach the proper temperature, apply the same techniques as those used with a leopard gecko enclosure. Ultraviolet lighting is optional because a diet that includes proper vitamin supplementation (again, seek recommendations from the person selling you the gecko) makes UV lighting unnecessary to maintain your crested gecko’s health, although it may be used for live plants in the terrarium. Lights should be turned off at night.

Feeding crested geckos is easy with the advent of Repashy’s Crested Gecko Diet, a commercially available fruit-flavored protein diet supplemented with vitamins and minerals. This is an excellent choice as a dietary staple for your crested gecko. It is mixed 2 parts water to 1 part food and offered in a shallow, sturdy dish that cannot be easily tipped over, such as a crock. Replace it with a fresh serving after 24 to 36 hours. Fruit purée may also be given to crested geckos, but you must supplement it before feeding.

You may also offer crested geckos commercially available insects, such as crickets and roaches. An adult crested can easily eat 3-week-old (3/4-inch) crickets; hatchlings can start with 1-week-old crickets. Young crested geckos are enthusiastic insect eaters, but this seems to change as they get older and begin to prefer fruit-based diets. Prepare insect food items with a vitamin and mineral supplement the same way as described for leopard geckos.

Water should always be available in a sturdy, shallow dish. Relative humidity in the enclosure should be at least 50 percent, achieved through misting either by hand or he use of a commercial misting system or humidifier.

Another beautiful New Caledonian gecko that does well in captivity is the gargoyle gecko (R. auriculatus). Just like the crested gecko, this beefy-bodied lizard (35 grams or more in adults, 4 to 41/2 inches in length without tail) is tropical, nocturnal, arboreal and can live for 15 to 20 years. It is found in the southern part of Grande Terre, exclusively among scrub brush and clearings of primary forest. At night, gargoyles may be found walking on roads, so at times they are also terrestrial.

Gargoyles are captivating geckos because of their unique look. The name “gargoyle” does provide an indication of their intriguing appearance, and they earn it because of the bony protuberances around the head above the ears. Their marbled eyes are also fascinating. Many morphs are available, the most common being the reticulated and striped. The red-striped morph is particularly stunning.

Gargoyle setup, care and husbandry is nearly identical to the crested gecko’s, with a few small differences. Gargoyles are not as social with each other or with people, so approach handling with caution. They may bite, and they have sharp teeth. They tend not to hang out together in the terrarium, so lots of uncluttered space is preferred. Grape vines for climbing work well for gargoyles in this type of setup. Unlike the crested gecko, if a gargoyle’s tail is lost, it will regenerate. Finally, some specimens may be more insectivorous than others. Its diet is essentially the same as the crested gecko’s, though more insects may be consumed.

In recent years, the mossy prehensile-tailed gecko (R. chahoua) has soared in popularity among gecko enthusiasts. This striking New Caledonian gecko has a beautiful mossylike patchwork of greens, reds, browns and sometimes whites on the shoulders. It originates from the Isle of Pines, where larger specimens with more distinct patterns are found, and from the mainland of Grande Terre, where it exhibits less distinctive patterning. This gecko’s gold eyes are captivating, and individuals are often quite tame.

The mossy prehensile-tailed gecko shares many characteristics with the other New Caledonian gecko species previously mentioned. It is also nocturnal, tropical and arboreal, and it has a lengthy life span at 20 to 30 years. Its snout-to-vent length can be as long as 5.7 inches, and specimens may weigh between 40 and 60 grams when sexually mature. Given that the tail only partially regenerates, it is fortunate that they do not readily drop their tails.

Setup and husbandry for R. chahoua is the same as for a crested gecko, with special attention to vertical space and adequate climbing furniture, including grapevine, cork bark and bamboo.

The last of our ultimate New Caledonian geckos is the giant New Caledonian (R. leachianus), a favorite among both gecko breeders and hobbyists because of its large size and beautiful coloration. There are two types: the largest form from Grande Terre (R. l. leachianus) and a smaller form, the Henkel’s giant (R. l. henkeli).

The large size and tremendous strength of the giant New Caledonian geckos makes them a good choice for an experienced gecko keeper, one with a good foundation of Rhacodactylus husbandry knowledge, ideally after having kept crested or gargoyle geckos.

The giant New Caledonian is one of the largest geckos in the world. It can measure up to 13 inches from snout to vent, and Grande Terre specimens can weigh up to approximately 450 grams. It has a large head, thick body and short tail. Many locality-specific morphs exist; most have a green to brown base color with round or checked spots of many colors, including white, pink, green, yellow, red and orange seen in different morphs. This gecko also has one of the longest gecko life spans in captivity: 20 to 35 years.

Terrarium setup and conditions should be similar to that of the crested and mossy prehensile-tailed geckos, except for this gecko the terrarium needs to be “supersized!” A 40-gallon enclosure is a good starting point for a single adult; 50 gallons or larger should be used for a pair. Exo Terra makes a large terrarium that works well and has a two-door front-opening style. It measures 24 inches long, 18 inches wide and 36 inches tall. In New Caledonia, both types live in trees and tree hollows, so offer large branches or bamboo for them to climb on. A large sheet of cork bark is a favorite and is durable enough to support their large size. Select only sturdy plants, as small plants will be crushed by these huge geckos.

Giant New Caledonians should be housed singly or in male-female pairs. House juveniles singly in small terrariums, such as 11/2-gallon Critter Keepers. Juveniles are intimidated by large setups.

There are few insects in the natural range of the giant New Caledonian geckos. Pets will prefer a crested gecko or fruit-based diet and an occasional insect offering. Juveniles may be more receptive to insects than adults. The Grande Terre form is an exception to this generality, as it is known to become more insectivorous with age, taking commercial insects, such as large crickets and super worms. It will also accept pink mice.

Now we are off to Asia, India and Indonesia to find our next ultimate gecko, the vocal Tokay(G. gecko). Like the giant New Caledonian gecko, the Tokay gecko is one of the largest geckos in the world. Males can easily reach 14 inches in length and weigh 300 grams or more. The Tokay is also one of the most visually appealing geckos. Bright red spots on a blue-gray body color is the natural variation, but many morphs exist, with various colors and patterns that are highly sought after by collectors.

The Tokay is arboreal, tropical and nocturnal. It, too, is a long-lived gecko, with frequent reports of individuals living 20 years or more. If lost, its tail will regenerate. The Tokay differs from the giant New Caledonian in that it is very social when it comes to mates and offspring; all live together well in a large terrarium setup, though the usual no-two-males-together rule continues here. Tokays are best kept in male-female pairs or as multiple females. They may or may not tolerate handling, especially if they have not been handled since they were juveniles. Approach Tokays with caution; they can inflict a nasty bite!

Read More: Tokay Gecko Information

Vivarium setup and husbandry is the same as described for the giant New Caledonian gecko, with the exception that Tokays are mostly insectivorous. They will eat any commercially available insects, taking up to 6-week-old crickets as adults.

We finish the last leg of our ultimate gecko journey in Madagascar. Here we find the Madagascar ground gecko (P. picta). Found in the southern part of Madagascar, these tropical and nocturnal geckos are mostly terrestrial, living under leaf litter during the day and chasing insects at night. They are not large at 51/2 inches, including the tail, and they are highly active and alert when seeking prey.

Madagascar ground geckos have large gold to copper eyes, which add to their appeal. There are two basic morph patterns, banded and striped, though there are also xanthic forms. There are seemingly infinite variations on these morphs.

This gecko is a bit jumpy to handle and is best handled minimally. Its tail does regenerate if lost, which happens most often if individuals are kept in overcrowded conditions. With proper care, Madagascar ground geckos can live six to 10 years in captivity.

Terrarium setup and husbandry is similar to that described for the African fat-tailed gecko. It requires 60- to 70-percent humidity. A moist hide box, though optional, is beneficial. Substrate can be paper towels, peat moss and/or medium-grade orchid bark.

Another great gecko from Madagascar is the giant day gecko (P. grandis), which is from the lush, tropical northern and northwestern part of the island. The giant day gecko is true to its name, reaching 7 to 12 inches in length. It is diurnal, with a spectacular bright-green body color and red markings on the face and head, including an ever-present red nose-to-eye stripe. Red markings on the back may or may not be present.

I recommend the giant day gecko as a second gecko, after you have first had experience keeping a leopard or crested gecko. Specimens have been known to live as long as 30 years, with life spans in the teens being the most common in the hobby.

The giant day gecko is an excellent display gecko. It cannot be handled because it does not like it and its skin is delicate. As with most of our ultimate geckos, and all types of day geckos, its tail does regenerate if lost.

Keep giant day geckos singly or in male-female pairs. Terrarium setup is nearly identical to the crested gecko’s, though giant day geckos do best in a glass-and-screen combination, which helps maintain the required 70- to 80-percent humidity, with a bright basking light. A T8 fluorescent will provide the necessary brightness, and a heat source, such as an incandescent light, can be used to heat a basking spot to 86 to 88 degrees during the day. At night, temperatures can drop to the low 70s. Full-spectrum lighting is optional, but compact fluorescents can provide both heating and the bright light all day geckos need to metabolize their food properly. Place at least one piece of 2-inch-diameter bamboo or PVC pipe diagonally across the terrarium, along which the gecko can choose its preferred temperature.

Feeding a giant day gecko is very similar to feeding a crested gecko, except that the giant day gecko is equally insectivorous and frugivorous while the crested gecko leans toward the latter. Giant day geckos prefer crickets to most other commercially available insects, and also do well on Repashy’s Day Gecko Diet or Crested Gecko Diet.

At least once a day, mist the terrarium, as this gecko prefers to drink water off of plants and the enclosure’s walls as opposed to drinking from a water dish.

Our last ultimate gecko is the small (up 33/4 inches) neon day gecko (P. klemmeri) from northwest Madagascar. Like the giant day gecko, it is tropical and diurnal. It exhibits a beautiful striped coloration of blues and blacks and has a yellow-green head. This striking gecko has an engaging personality and will tolerate a limited amount of handling, which is unusual for a Phelsuma species. It is a great day gecko for someone who has previously kept a giant or other type of day gecko, and its life span in captivity ranges from 10 to 12 years if kept in optimal conditions.

The setup for a neon day gecko is similar to the giant day gecko’s. It can be kept in a smaller terrarium, such as a 10-gallon tall, and smaller-diameter bamboo is needed. A basking spot between 85 and 95 degrees should be provided. It’s best kept in male-female pairs, though “hareming” — keeping one male with multiple females — has been done successfully. Feed the same foods as described for P. grandis, though adult neon day geckos require 2-week-old crickets. Fruit flies are also accepted.

Now that you’ve seen all the wonderful choices, where will you start your ultimate gecko journey?

There are over 1,500 species, and at least two dozen of those are sold in the pet industry.

Those looking to get started with geckos may feel overwhelmed with all their choices. To help out, we have provided an introduction to eight geckos you may find when browsing at pet shops or reptile breeder sites. Read on to learn about geckos for keepers at all levels of experience.

These geckos are easy to keep and can be handled occasionally so long as you are gentle.

That doesn’t mean you can stick them in a tank and forget about them. If you do not provide clean housing and appropriate food these geckos will suffer for your neglect. But these geckos can survive minor newbie errors and tolerate less-than-ideal conditions.

Originally found in the dry regions of Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Nepal and Iran, today Leopard Geckos can be found all over the world. Leopard Geckos are the most commonly found geckos in the pet trade for many reasons.

In their native habitat, Leopard Geckos live in rocky dry grasslands and deserts. The rocks provide crevices for shelter. They burrow into the clay and sandy soils and hide from the sun and predators. When the sun goes down Leopards search for insects and anything else they can eat.

The Leopard Gecko gets its name from the spots on its yellow-orange body and the white belly which blushes up its sides. But today you can also find many Leopard Gecko morphs available in the pet market.

Unlike most geckos, Leopard Geckos have eyelids. They don’t have to lick their corneas to get rid of dust, they simply blink. But Leopards do not have the ridged toe pads which allow other geckos to climb trees or run up walls. This is good for beginning gecko keepers, as climbing geckos can be escape artists!

With their permanently curved mouths, Leopard Geckos always look happy. You can keep them happy by providing a clean 15 to 20-gallon tank with lots of hides, a warm spot between 87∞ and 90∞, a stable dish of fresh water, and a steady diet of gut-loaded and calcium dusted crickets and mealworms.

Until 1994 scientists believed New Caledonia’s Crested Gecko was extinct. Twenty-five years later Crested Geckos are among the most popular geckos in the trade. Spiky protuberances around their eyes have given them another common name, Eyelash Gecko. Many first-time gecko keepers buy Crested Geckos for their ease of care and generally docile disposition.

Captive bred Crested Geckos come in a variety of colors, from near-black to cream-white along with reds, yellows and the normal olive. Patterns include pinstripes, tiger stripes and spots. These have been mixed and matched by breeders and today you can get Crested Geckos with multiple morphs – though you may not get them cheaply!

Crested Geckos have modest heating requirements. A warm spot of 80∞ will suit them just fine: any higher and they will become stressed. They can handle temperatures as cold as 60∞ but will be more comfortable with a cool spot in the high 60s to low 70s. They will also appreciate a brief misting every evening with a water bottle, but don’t overdo it.

Crested Geckos need climbing branches, hides and a water dish. They also need a balanced diet of fruits, their primary diet in the wild. Pangea Banana-Papaya Fruit Mix and Repashy Crested Gecko MRP Diet are both recommended by many Crested Gecko breeders. Gut-loaded mealworms, crickets or waxworms are good as an occasional treat.

Because they like to climb, a tall terrarium will suit a Crested Gecko best. 24 inches x 18 inches x 18 inches is the minimum for adult Crested Geckos. You can go larger and your Crested will appreciate the extra space, but make sure you have hiding spaces where they can rest.

We have some articles that will assist you in setting up your Crested Gecko’s home.

At first glance African Fat-Tailed Geckos look like brown Leopard Geckos with more junk in the trunk. Like Leopards, African Fat-Tailed Geckos have eyelids and lack toe ridges for climbing. But while Leopard Geckos come from southern Central Asia, African Fat-Tails are found in the arid regions of West Africa between Cameroon and Senegal.

Though they are not yet quite so popular as Leopard Geckos, African Fat-Tails have many fans in the gecko keeping community. Most African Fat-Tails on the market are captive-bred. The original brown pattern is available, as are morphs like White-Outs, Striped, Banded, Ghosts and Stingers.

African Fat-Tail Geckos are even more tolerant of handling than Leopard Geckos. But whatever you do, never grab an African Fat-Tail – or any other gecko – by the tail. Gecko tails detach easily as a defense mechanism. While their tail will grow back it will be shorter and stubbier and the tail wound may become infected.

Because they are terrestrial geckos and lack climbing pads, you should use an under-tank heater or heating tape to provide them a 90∞ basking spot. Their cool side should be in the high 70s to low 80s. Give them a moist hiding area and lightly mist their habitat two or three times a week. African Fat-Tails are insectivorous and will thrive on the same diet as your Leopard Geckos.

That being said, do not try keeping African Fat-Tails and Leopards in the same tank. Leopards need drier conditions, and the docile African Fat-Tail will likely be wounded or killed by the more assertive Leopard Gecko.

New Caledonia’s Gargoyle Gecko gets its name from the tiny horns on its head. But while gargoyles are frightening, Gargoyle Geckos are gentle reptiles. They are easily bred in captivity and come both in their native brown-grey patterns and a number of morphs including red and yellow stripes.

Your Gargoyle Gecko needs at least a 20-gallon tank, but will happily live in a larger enclosure. If you live in a relatively humid area, a screen cage will provide your Gargoyle with both humidity and good ventilation.

Gargoyle Geckos prefer cooler temperatures than most geckos. They will do fine with a warm spot of between 78∞ to 82∞ provided by a low-wattage incandescent bulb, under tank heater with thermostat or ceramic heat emitter. In the summer you may need to move them to an air-conditioned room if their room’s ambient air temperature gets above 87∞.

Reptile carpet will provide an easily cleaned substrate. If you want to include live plants in their terrarium, make sure your soil does not include perlite. A 50/50 mix of soil and coir (coconut fiber sold in bricks like Zilla Coconut Husk Brick will be good for both your plants and your Gargoyle Gecko.

Gargoyle Geckos like climbing, so provide them with branches as well as ground-level hides. Leave plenty of open space to allow them room to explore. If you are interested in owning a Gargoyle Gecko, here is a handy care guide that will provide the care and feeding instructions you need to keep your Gargoyle safe and healthy.

These geckos will benefit from a keeper with some experience. They may have more specialized care requirements, or they may be less tolerant of handling. If you can meet those requirements you may find these geckos worth the effort.

The Gold Dust Day Gecko gets its name from the tiny yellow dots dappled over its bright green skin. As adults they reach a length of six to nine inches. While they will breed in captivity, most Gold Dust Day Geckos in the pet trade are imported wild-caught animals.

Gold Dust Day Geckos comes from northern Madagascar and are accustomed to a humid tropical climate. They will benefit from a terrarium humidifier like the Zoo Med Reptifogger. Give them branches and lots of hiding spaces. Be sure to provide them plenty of light and a UVA/UVB lamp. Their basking area should be in the low 90s and their cool spot in the low to mid 70s.

Gold Dust Day Geckos are best kept one to a tank. They quarrel amongst each other and males will often wound or even kill a female introduced for breeding.

In the wild they live on a diet of insects and fruit nectar. In captivity feed them mealworms, crickets and mealworms along with Repashy Crested Gecko MRP Diet or another supplement for fruit-eating geckos.

Gold Dust Day Geckos are easily stressed and do not tolerate handling well. If you grab them too hard their skin may tear, or they may drop their tail to escape. This is a gecko best admired from the other side of the glass.

The Madagascar Ground Gecko comes from southern Madagascar. While wild-caught imports are occasionally found for sale, most Madagascar Ground Geckos in the pet trade are captive bred.

Available morphs include Hypo, Orange, Yellow, Anerythristic, Xanthic, Banded and Striped. Some stores and breeders sell Madagascar Ground Geckos as Panther Geckos, Ocelot Geckos or Malagasy Fat-Tailed Geckos.

Madagascar Ground Geckos are smaller than Leopard Geckos. Adults are typically between four and six inches from nose to tail, though a big male may reach eight inches. Unlike its fruit-eating northern neighbor, the Madagascar Ground Gecko is entirely insectivorous. They are healthy eaters who will pack away the crickets, roaches and mealworms.

Because they are nocturnal, Madagascar Ground Geckos require very little if any UV supplementation. Neither do they need a fogger, though a daily light misting with a spray bottle will help their sheds.

Keeping several hides in the enclosure will lead to a calmer Madagascar Ground Gecko. In their native home they hide under fallen leaves. And while Gold Dust Day Geckos need branches to thrive, P. pictus, as per the name, is happiest and safest on the ground.

They can climb (and you should keep a secure lid on their home) but will spend most of their time on the terrarium floor. If you give them branches to explore, make sure they are low to the ground. (Think logs or sticks rather than branches). A Madagascar Ground Gecko can be injured if it falls too far.

The Madagascar Ground Gecko is generally as easy to care for as a Leopard Gecko. But they are less tolerant of handling than a Leopard. They do not tolerate stress well and will often bite and sometimes shed their tail when you try picking them up.

In time some Madagascar Ground Geckos will tolerate brief handling from a trusted owner. But this will require patience and your gecko may always be skittish. If you are fine with watching your reptile from a distance, the Madagascar Ground Gecko makes an excellent pet.

These geckos offer special challenges. A novice may not be ready for their environmental needs or their temperament. You will do better keeping them after you have gained some reptile husbandry experience with less difficult species.

With their bright orange spots on a turquoise-grey background, Tokay Geckos command immediate attention. Tokays are also widely available in pet stores and can be purchased for $20 or less. You may be tempted to purchase one of these little beauties as your first gecko.

But the Tokay Gecko’s pretty colors mask its foul disposition. Tokays are highly territorial and will lunge at your hand when it enters their tank. And after your Tokay has bitten you, it won’t hesitate to make a dash for escape.

(Did I mention that Tokays are also very fast runners? Or that they can run up walls to get behind dressers or appliances?)

Some baby geckos are nippy as hatchlings but calm down with patient and gentle handling. Your Tokay Gecko will always be a biter. Tokays are one of the largest gecko species, with males reaching 13-16 inches and females 8-12. Those bites that hurt when your Tokay was a baby will draw blood once they grow up.

Tokay Geckos are found throughout Southeast Asia. Inspired by the Tokay’s noisy call, people throughout the region call them token, gekk-gekk, tuck-too or poo-kay. American soldiers in Vietnam, inspired by it call and disposition, called it the “____ you lizard.”

Once you get past the teeth, Tokays are not especially difficult to keep. Give them a diet of leafy greens, fruit and insects and an 80∞ to 85∞ cage with a warm spot between 90∞ and 105∞. Mist their tank nightly (or use a dripper or fogger) and provide supplemental UVA/UVB light.

Leucistic, Calico, Powder Blue and Granite are a few of the available Tokay Gecko morphs. If you are experienced in chasing down runaway geckos and aren’t afraid of an occasional bite, you should have little trouble finding the perfect Tokay Gecko for your collection.

If you were walking through a Southeast Asian rain forest you would probably never spot a Flying Gecko. At a quick glance their loose mottled brown skin makes them look like a dead leaf or a piece of bark.

If you were very lucky you might see a small brown lizard leap from one branch and sail to another. Their loose skin allows Flying Geckos to glide like a flying squirrel or sugar glider, a skill which gives them their name.

Flying Geckos need good-sized cages, which should be taller than they are wide. They also need branches to climb and foliage to hide under. The bigger the space you can provide, the better. Flying Geckos are active after dark and will spend much of the night exploring. If you can keep them in a large enough terrarium you may even get to see them sailing between branches.

Rainforests are humid, and your Flying Geckos will benefit from a reptile fogger or a dripper like a Exo Terra Dripper Plant. But too much humidity can lead to scale rot and respiratory infections. The humidity should be 80% at night and no less than 60% during the day. Use a heat lamp to provide a 95∞ basking spot.

Flying geckos will enjoy a Feeding Ledge, as they will feel more comfortable eating their crickets, roaches, mealworms and waxworms from a branch. In the wild Flying Geckos are more vulnerable to predators on the ground and spend most of their time in the trees.

Flying Geckos do not like handling and their thin skin is easily damaged. Given their specialized humidity requirements, preference for larger containers, and skittish nature, Flying Geckos are best left to keepers with gecko keeping experience.

Leopard geckos are a favorite among reptile owners because they are docile, adorable, and more adventurous than some other reptile varieties. Do leopard geckos like to be held, though?

Although leopard geckos tolerate being held much better than other reptiles, they don’t particularly like it. If you take the time to build up trust with your leopard gecko, it won’t be afraid or stressed during the handling experience, but they won’t look forward to it either.

To find out more about why leopard geckos don’t particularly like being handled and the best methods for handling your pet, read on. This article provides a comprehensive guide to handling a leopard gecko.

Unfortunately, leopard geckos do not like being handled. Even if your pet does not run away from you or show any signs of fear, it still does not look forward to the handling experience. At most, leopard geckos are indifferent to being handled.

Although it may be a bit sad to know that your leopard gecko doesn’t like being handled, it is important to note that leopard geckos are much more suitable for handling than other reptiles. If you are patient with your leopard gecko and introduce it to your hand slowly, the gecko will likely not feel any stress or anxiety during the handling process.

In other words, leopard geckos can be trained so as not to hate handling, though they will likely never love it like a dog or cat would.

To understand why leopard geckos do not like being held, you have to understand something about reptiles as a whole. Reptiles do not have the ability to form emotional connections like humans, cats, or dogs, though they learn who they can trust.

As a result, leopard geckos do not “like” being handled in the same way that dogs “like” being pet. That is not to say that they hate being handled. It simply means that they do not have an emotional connection to you, which results in an indifference to the handling experience in a best case scenario.

In a worst-case scenario, the leopard gecko can be incredibly stressed whenever it is held. Whenever you first get your leopard gecko, it does not know it is safe with you. As a result, geckos and reptiles can get very stressed out whenever they are held.

Even though geckos don’t love being held, you can still handle them without stressing your pet out, but you have to build up trust first. So long as you take special care to be gentle and patient with your leopard gecko, handling your pet can be completely ethical and rewarding, for both you and the gecko.

The most important thing to do if you want to handle your leopard gecko is to slowly introduce yourself first. Whenever you first get your gecko, it does not yet no you are not a threat. Thus, you don’t want to try handling your gecko just yet. If you try to hold the gecko too soon, it will likely become stressed and hate the experience in the future.

Instead, you want to start by slowly acclimating yourself to the gecko so that the gecko learns you aren’t a threat. Begin by simply feeding the gecko so that it associates you with food.

After that, you can slowly put your hand in the cage, allow the gecko to come to you, and potentially touch its back. If the gecko shows no signs of stress at this point, then you can begin holding it. Start by only holding your gecko for a few minutes and gradually work your way up.

Leopard geckos may be different from dogs in that they don’t particularly like being handled, but they have one critical aspect in common: they love food. Just as you can train dogs to love you and listen to your commands by providing treats, you can build trust with your leopard gecko with food.

Make sure to feed your leopard gecko consistently so that they get into a routine. Once the routine is established, the leopard gecko will associate you with food and know you are not a threat. Once you feel comfortable enough with the leopard gecko, you can even try to hand feed little treats as a surprise.

By giving the leopard gecko treats while it is being handled, it is much more likely to enjoy the handling process. Treats really are the key to just about any animal’s heart.

Even though geckos don’t particularly like being held, they do like exploring new areas in a safe environment. So that they associate you with fun and new experiences, you should allow your gecko to explore on their own terms while you are handling them.

For example, you might want to bring the leopard gecko to your bed or some other safe environment during the handling process. These sorts of environments will be new to the gecko, which means they will be excited to explore. At the same time, you know the environment is safe so that the gecko has nothing to worry about.

If you really want to go the extra mile for your gecko, try to create an obstacle course for it. You could do this inside the tank or outside the tank. Either way, the obstacle course will challenge your gecko and allow them to associate you with new and fun experiences.

If you want to create an obstacle course inside the tank, simply rearrange the tank’s items. You could also put tunnels and other items inside the tank. For obstacle courses outside of the tank, you don’t need to do anything fancy since the entire experience will be new. You can put little pillows or other items for the gecko to crawl on as they are outside their enclosure.

In addition to building trust with your leopard gecko, it is highly important to know how to hold and handle the gecko. Geckos are very delicate creatures. If you are too rough on them, you can easily injure and scare the creature, essentially undoing all the trust building you have done.

To begin picking up your leopard gecko, make sure that there are no signs of stress or anxiety. If your gecko is hiding, drooping its tail, running away, or chirping, it does not want to be handled. Do not force your gecko in your hand if it is already scared.

Once the gecko shows no signs of fear, you can slowly bring your hand to it. Always try to show your hand and avoid sneaking up on the gecko. This allows them to know that they are not being attacked. Pick up the gecko with a scooping motion. Be as gentle as possible so as not to injure the gecko.

While you’re holding your leopard gecko, be gentle but ready to catch it in the case that it should run. Never try to grab the leopard gecko by its tail if it should try to take off. You shouldn’t handle the gecko for more than 15 minutes. After the time is up, slowly lower your hand into the cage and allow the gecko to slide off.

Even though you probably love handling your leopard gecko, the gecko is indifferent to being held in the best-case scenario. If you do not take the time to introduce your hand to the gecko, it could actually be afraid of being held.

For this reason, it’s imperative to build proper trust with your gecko so that it knows it is not in danger when it is being held. Additionally, you need to be gentle and careful when holding the gecko so as not to accidentally hurt it. By being patient and gentle with your gecko, it will likely learn that you are no threat and allow you to hold it without any stress.

This makes them a great choice for first time keepers.

Many species have beautiful color and pattern combinations and are very friendly.

When choosing a pet Gecko it is important to know some species are more beginner friendly. Some species are outgoing and friendly while others are shy and hide.

It is important that a beginner adopts the right species for them.

Continue reading to discover our top 15 pet gecko species for beginners.

The Frog-Eyed Gecko is named after their large slit-like eyes.

At first glance Frog-Eyes look very similar to the more commonly known Leopard Gecko (#1). But, they are actually a bit stockier and do not have vivid patterns.

They are often yellow-tan and white in color. They have mottled spots of brown and tan covering their backside and the top of their head.

Frog-Eyed Geckos are from central Asia and live in a hot and dry environment. A beginner will need to keep their enclosure between 84 to 93ºF to keep them healthy and happy.

This species is best kept by a patient beginner or advanced keeper. They are not as low maintenance or outgoing as many other species.

After adopting this pet you will soon learn that this species loves running to the edge of their enclosure and watching the outside world. Owners love this about their personalities.

Frog-Eyed species are great for anyone who wants to watch a Gecko, but not handle them. Handling stresses this species and may cause them to lose their tail.

A dedicated beginner can care for this reptile provided their temperature and humidity are taken care of.

Owners love the Madagascar Ground Gecko their unique color patterns.

They often have auburn eyes that match well with their brick-red body and brown, tan and white mottling.

The Madagascar Ground Gecko has many names including:

There are actually 22 different subspecies of Madagascar Ground Gecko. But, the best pet species is the Paroedura pictus.

Madagascar species make a great choice for beginners.

Unlike most Geckos they are terrestrial so they do not need a tall tank to climb in. They are also small and measure five inches as adults. This means they do not need a lot of space and can thrive in a 10-gallon tank.

This species also tolerates infrequent handling.

They are a good choice for owners who want to occasionally handle their pet.

The Yellow-Headed Day Gecko is a member of the Day Gecko family.

Day species make great pets because they are easy to care for and brightly colored.

They make a great choice for a beginner who wants to care for a vividly colored Gecko.

Yellow-Headed species are different from many Day Geckos because of their slim size, bright neon stripes and social behavior with other lizards. Because of their social behavior it is possible to house multiple females.

Adults grow to just four inches. But, despite this they need a large tank to show the full range of their energy and personality.

Like the Madagascar Ground Gecko (#12) this species is also from Madagascar. If you travel to Madagascar it is not uncommon to see them resting on bamboo!

Yellow-Heads are protected in their natural habitat so you can only buy captive bred species.

They are best suited for a gentle beginner who is a fan of bright colors and social lizards. This reptile can be shy around people but it can be fun to house a family.

The Leachianus is also known as the New Caledonian Giant Gecko.

Leachies are one of the largest pet geckos.

Adults can be over one foot long and make a very unique pet because of their size. Most types of geckos stay under six inches.

Leachies are especially known for their unique vocalizations. They bark, yip and grow throughout the night as they are nocturnal.

A dedicated beginner who does their research and provides routine husbandry can care for this species. But, they historically do best in experienced homes.

This species can be a lot of work due to their size and personality. They are large and need lots of space.

They are also more expensive than most pet Geckos and can be very territorial.

The Flying Gecko is found high in the trees of Indonesia.

This pet Gecko has a mossy appearance with colors of brown, black and tan. Their appearance helps them blend in with the environment.

Amazingly this species has webbed toes and a flat tail that they use to “fly”. This Gecko can leap from tree to tree by pulling in their feet and flapping their tail.

Flying species usually do not display their flying behavior in captivity due to a lack of space.

Beginners should try using a 50-gallon tank for this pet and decorate the tank with dense branches and plants.

Flying species are very easy to care for in captivity but have a temperamental personality. They are quick, hard to catch and do not enjoy handling. They need an owner that is gentle and patient, and so are suited to adult beginners.

The Giant Day Gecko is another species from Madagascar.

This species is normally found high up in the trees of Madagascar. They like to spend their time soaking up the sun clinging to tree trunks and branches.

They are one of the biggest species from the Day family and are a bright green. Some species have bright blue and red patterns too.

Their color can change slightly to show stress levels or to communicate with other species. Like many species of Gecko, they do not like handling and may lose their tails if they become too stressed.

Beginners should know that Giant Days are great at escaping from their tank.

They should make sure they have a good setup and a tight lid.

Giant Day species are perfect for beginners who want a brightly colored lizard to quietly look at during daylight hours.

Gold Dust Day Geckos are a green colored species from Madagascar.

This reptile has a base color of green with red and blue patterning. They are also flecked with small yellow spots that give them their Gold Dust name.

The Gold Dust Day is the last of three Day Gecko species on our list.

Similar to the Neon Day (#13) this lizard is smaller than most species. They also have more color variety than their Giant Cousin (#10).

Like all Day species they do not enjoy handling.

Gold Dust species are naturally shy and enjoy hiding in plants or behind rocks.

While they cannot be handled, their ease of care and mild temperament make them good pet Gecko.

Mediterranean House Geckos are native to southern Europe and northern Africa. They are usually purple to tan with dark spots and large round eyes.

This lizard is not very big and lives very happily in a tall 20-gallon tank.

Mediterranean House species are normally found near or living inside houses or offices.

In the last two decades this Gecko has also been introduced to parts of Texas because of cargo ships that travel between Europe and America.

What makes this lizard such a great beginner Gecko is that it may already want to live in your house.

They are hardy and very comfortable living with humans.

For beginners in Europe and Northern Africa they make a great first-time pet.

The Chahoua is another New Caledonian species (#12) that is found in the treetops of rainforests.

They are called Chahoua because of their scientific name Rhacodactylus chahoua. They are also known as:

Chahoua Geckos are low maintenance. They are nocturnal, so they do not require any additional lighting. They also have a healthy appetite and will eat commercial Crested Gecko food.

This pet lizard is very friendly and enjoys being handled occasionally. Though, if they are not handled as juveniles, they can be jumpy.

Their only downside is how expensive they are, as juveniles they can cost $2,000.

The Common House is known as an Asian House Gecko.

This pet reptile is very similar in appearance to the Mediterranean House Gecko (#8). They both have tan bodies and large lidless eyes. They have also been introduced to other parts of the world through human travel (like the Mediterranean House Gecko in Texas).

Unlike the Mediterranean species, this reptile is from southeast Asia and not Europe.

In the United States Common House Geckos are commonly found in Texas and Florida.

They are nocturnal and are often found near artificial light sources at night. They eat the insects that are drawn to this light.

This species adjusts very well to being kept as a pet because they are already found in homes. But, they are quick and do not like handling.

Instead they are happier spending time in your presence.

They make great pets due to their adaptability and suit beginners who want a low maintenance Gecko.

Chinese Caves are a hardy Gecko that are great for a beginner.

This type of Gecko is from the same genus as the Leopard (#1) and African Fat-Tailed (#3) species. Chinese Caves are not as common as their Leopard Gecko cousins, but they are just as easy to care for.

These lizard are usually brown to purple in color with black and yellow bands and spots.

There is little on the negative side of caring for this pet.

Chinese Caves do not need special lighting (because they are nocturnal), thrive at room temperature (unlike most reptiles that need 80ºF+) and can live in a 10 gallon tank. They also tolerate handling.

They are hardy pets and great for anyone learning to care for a Gecko.

Gargoyle Geckos are a great pet for beginners.

They are easy to care for, easy to feed and enjoy handling. Compared to most species on this list they quite enjoy frequent human interaction and occasional handling.

What is most unique about this species is their leaf-like appearance. Their snake-like eyes compliment their mottled brown skin that makes them perfect for camouflaging in the forest.

The Gargoyle Gecko is a semi-arboreal species that can be found up in the trees or on the ground.

Like many nocturnal species they do not require any special lighting. They are also healthy in temperatures of 70 to 80ºF.

Gargoyles are great for nearly all beginners. They have simple care requirements and tolerate handling.

The African Fat-Tailed is a relative of the Chinese Cave (#5) that is named after their characteristically fat tail. They look very similar to Leopard Geckos (#1) but are smaller in size.

This lizard can be found in savannahs and the edges of rivers in West Africa.

African Fat-Tailed Geckos make a fantastic choice for many reasons.

1. It is common for them to be kept as pets so their care requirements are well documented.

2. They have fantastic temperaments and are slow-moving so beginners can easily handle them.

3. They do not need special lighting.

4. They are easy to house and feed.

The African Fat-Tail is suited to anyone looking for their first pet reptile. They are a fascinating reptile.

The Crested Gecko is the most popular pet Gecko from the Rhacodactylus genus. They are named after the crests that run from their eyes down the length of their backs. They are unique because of these eyelash-like crests that help to keep out dust and dirt.

Crested Geckos have triangular shaped heads and large round eyes. Interestingly, they lick their eyeballs to clean them (as do most species on this list).

This species has snake-like eyes that are usually a pale orange color. Their eyes compliment their sunset-yellow body color.

The Crested is a great pet for beginners because of their well-rounded characteristics.

They are solitary and nocturnal so do not require special lighting. They are also very easy to maintain and are docile. Because of their gentle nature, they can be handled nearly every day.

Leopards make the best pet Gecko!

They are not just a great first gecko but they are a great first reptile. They are docile and very tame pets.

Many first time keepers have successfully kept this species. Leopard species are easy to feed, do not need large tanks and are generally very healthy. They are also nocturnal so do not require special lighting.

There are also many keepers that have successfully bred this species in captivity.

The Leopard Gecko is from southwestern Asia and is named after its beautiful spots.

This species comes in many different morphs and colors. A wild type has a body with shades of yellow to tan. with white bellies and dark brown spots.

Leopards are unique and differ from many other pet geckos because they have moveable eyelids. This means they do not lick their eyeballs to clean them.

Geckos are interesting reptiles and make great pets.

Many species in this list are similar in appearance but are completely different in their care needs, personality, and habitat. It is important that any keeper understands which type of Gecko is best for them.

Here are some things to consider.

Some are cheaper than others.

Leopard, Crested, House, Flying and Frog-Eyed Geckos are the cheapest beginner friendly species. Gargoyles, Chahouas, Leaf-Tailed and Leachies are very expensive.

Many geckos on this list are easy to care for, but some species become too stressed with handling. If you would like to handle your lizard then consider getting a Leopard, Crested, African Fat-Tailed, Gargoyle or a Mediterranean Ground. Beginners are normally more comfortable handling smaller species such as the Mediterranean and Leopard.

Some species have simple husbandry needs and are hardy. Some are not.

Common House Geckos often have short lifespans, but Leopard, Frog-Eyed, Gargoyle, African Fat-Tail and Crested Geckos can live for 20 years.

It is important to know that all of the species above are suited to different owners.

Crested geckos have gentle dispositions that allow them to be handled, and they are hardy, making then a good choice for a first gecko.