Which hay is best for goats?

Goats eat everything! Right? Well, my herd of Dwarf Nigerian cross Boer goats doesn’t. Offer them organic lettuce fresh from the garden, and they’ll turn their collective noses up at it.

Offer them fresh oat hay, and they won’t even sniff it! Even some bales of alfalfa may prove too stalky for their delicate dispositions.

Admittedly, not all goats are as particular as mine, and while some may happily munch their way through a bale of straw, they won’t thrive on it.

There are almost as many different hay varieties as there are goat breeds – that’s why finding the best hay is something of a challenge.

The best hay for a lactating dairy goat won’t be the same as the best hay for mature bucks.

Goats need good-quality grass hay that’s free from debris and mold. The actual type of grass doesn’t matter too much as long as it’s not too coarse for their tiny mouths. Many homesteaders buy Timothy hay for the main herd and alfalfa for their lactating does, who benefit from its higher protein and calcium content.

With hay prices soaring, it’s tempting to look for cheaper alternatives. You may even find yourself wondering, is straw or hay better for goats? Good-quality straw looks like hay and smells strangely appealing to humans, but goats know better. (They have more hay wisdom than us. For sure!)

Hay is harvested and baled with the leaves and grains still attached, whereas straw is merely the collection of stalks left over after the grain harvesting.

As a result, it has almost no nutritional benefits, which is why goats generally prefer sleeping on it rather than eating it.

However, there are different types of hay! That is probably where the confusion about straw comes from – the mix between hay and straw throws off even skillful farmers.

Not all hay is grass, after all, and you do get some types of cereal grain straw, as well as grass and legume hay.

Cereal grain straw is more nutritious than the straw we use for bedding because, during harvest, the farmers leave the grain seeds still intact.

My goats aren’t that keen, and while they’ll nibble away at the oats, they’ll leave the stalks untouched.

Legume hays like alfalfa, vetch, and clover, have a higher protein content. They contain more of the nutrients goats need to stay healthy.

These are ideal for a pregnant and lactating doe and to give an under-nourished goat an energy boost, but they contain too much calcium and protein for the average adult goat.

Timothy, brome, orchard grass, and bluegrass are all types of grass hay. Good-quality grass hay is both nutritional and digestible.

As long as it’s free of dust and mold and harvests early, it makes an excellent fodder. Harvested too late, it will be too stalky for a goat’s tiny mouth and more troublesome to digest.

Combining elements of both the above will keep your goats in excellent health.

Although we were feeding our lactating does some alfalfa, we found it was too dusty and fell apart too readily.

More bale got trodden into the ground than consumed, making it expensive and futile. Pellet form would make a lot more sense, but are alfalfa pellets bad for goats?

If fed exclusively, alfalfa in any form can be bad for goats. Bucks, for example, are prone to developing urinary calculi, or stones in the urinary tract, if kept on an alfalfa-only diet for too long.

A better approach is to provide your entire herd with grass hay ad-lib and then mix some alfalfa pellets plus grain for your lactating does and anyone else that needs a bit extra.

The calcium in alfalfa will increase milk production and, when fed alongside the phosphorus-rich grain, delivers the right balance of calcium and phosphorus.

Read More – Raising Goats vs. Sheep! Which Is Best for Profits – and Fun?

You expect to find hay in any bale you buy, but I’ve found it’s often mixed up with a variety of other things.

I’ve found mud, stones, weeds, plastic bags, and mold in my bales recently, all of which detract from its usefulness and nutritional value. These foreign bodies can also cause problems for your goats, despite their robust digestive systems.

To establish which hay is the best for your goats, look for the following:

The higher the leaf content, the more nutritious the hay.

A bale that smells sour or musty is probably moldy and therefore unappetizing – even for goats!

Moldy hay can also cause listeriosis or Silage Sickness. Listeriosis is a potentially fatal infectious disease that causes encephalitis, blood poisoning, and abortion. (Yikes!)

When we see a bale of bright green hay, we get excited! It looks so good we might even consider eating it ourselves. Green bales indicate that it is still fresh. Fresh hay bales usually contain healthy levels of vitamins A and E.

Hay that sits around for six months or more, or if it dwells in poor conditions, will usually have a yellow or brown hue. It will also lack the vitamin A and E levels of fresh hay.

Good-quality hay should be soft to the touch and flake easily. Not only will goats be reluctant to eat very stalky hay, but it’s also less nutritious.

Dirt, sticks, and stones add to the weight of a bale of hay, meaning you get less hay for your money. A hale with lots of dirt in it will inevitably become dusty, potentially causing respiratory issues for your goats.

Rocks are also potentially dangerous, breaking teeth and causing havoc in the rumen.

We have boatloads of experience feeding hay to goats and researching about goats!

That’s why we want to share a list of the top questions for any farmer with hungry goats to feed.

We hope you enjoy reading the answers!

What about you – and your goats?

Which hay do they prefer?

We’d love to hear about your experience!

Thanks for reading – and have a great day!

Read More – How Often Do You Have to Milk a Goat? Once or Twice a Day?

While some goat-owners may have a personal preference as to the type of hay that their goats receive, there is no one type of “goat hay” out there that can, or even should, be used. Any type of hay that is of good to excellent quality and is properly harvested and stored can be successfully fed to goats with correct management. This is not to say that different plant species do not each have their own specific advantages and disadvantages. As they say, there is no free lunch… even for goats!

Fescue is a widely grown cool-season forage grass in the Midwest and Southeast. There are roughly 100 different species of Fescue but the most cultivated species are Tall Fescue and Meadow Fescue. Both are high yielding, broad-leafed perennial bunchgrasses. Some advantages of fescue are that it is relatively easy to establish and maintain and that it is well suited to wet-natured, organic soils and moderate environmental conditions found in much of the United States. Fescue has adequate palatability and is a nutritious forage option that can be successfully used in goat operations. Average fescue hay typically contains 8-9% crude protein and 55-60% TDN on a dry matter basis. As with all hay, nutritional content varies widely according to management and harvesting conditions and can be higher or lower than these figures. Another advantage of fescue is its ability to retain quality after “stockpiling.” After frost, stockpiled fescue can be grazed as “standing hay”. Most species of fescue contain a symbiotic parasitic fungus called an endophyte. This fungus affords the fescue plant much of its resilience and adaptability. This same endophyte can create havoc for livestock. In cases of high levels of endophyte infestation, fescue toxicosis can result. The fescue endopyhte is known to interfere with blood flow and heat regulation in the animal. As a result, toxicity symptoms include reduced feed intake and milk production (animals spend more time in shade and water and less time grazing) and poor conception rates. In extreme cases animals can experience necrosis on tips of ears as well as lameness and hoof malformation. Fescue endophyte infection level is variable from field to field. Pastures with lower infection levels will cause fewer problems than those with high infection levels. Fescue toxicity is more common in malnourished animals and those suffering heavy parasitism. There are several management options to minimize the negative effects of the fescue endophyte including use of low-endophyte fescue varieties; establishment of other forages (commonly clover) in pastures and hay fields to dilute the amount of endophyte consumed; adequate parasite control measures and finally nutritional supplementation.

Bermudagrass is a fast growing, hearty species of warm-season perennial grass found extensively in the Southeast. Bermudagrass thrives on well-drained, sandy-type soils and temperatures above 70° F. Improved hybrid varieties of bermudagrass are well suited for hay production. Common varieties include Coastal, Tifton 44, Tifton 85 and Tifton 78. Many goats do quite well on bermudagrass pastures and hay. An advantage of bermudagrass is that it is relatively easy to establish and maintain. However, hybrid varieties of bermudagrass must be sprigged rather than seeded. Since sprigging is best accomplished by professionals, establishment of hybrid bermudagrass fields can be relatively expensive. Another disadvantage is that bermudagrass has a high fertilization requirement. Hay fields or pastures that are not regularly fertilized and/or limed produce poor yields and contain low nutrient content. Another disadvantage is that bermudagrass can grow so fast during summer months that it can easily become over-mature without regular mowing or good pasture management. The desired canopy height for vegetative growth of bermudagrass pastures is fairly low (2 to 4 inches) and can aid in the spread of parasites. However, strategic rotational grazing can help alleviate this disadvantage. Average Coastal Bermudagrass hay tests out at roughly 10-12% crude protein and 55% TDN on a dry matter basis. But once again, poorly fertilized or over-mature hay can contain much lower nutrient values while well fertilized hay that is properly harvested at the vegetative stage can deliver even higher nutritional values.

Alfalfa is a high-quality legume that is commonly grown in the Northwest, Northeast and Midwest. Alfalfa is extremely drought resistant with a substantial taproot. It requires well-drained soils with a low water table. Unless you live in an area where alfalfa is grown locally, this hay option can be quite expensive. Advantages of alfalfa are that it is an excellent source of protein and is highly palatable to livestock Good quality alfalfa hay delivers 15-20% crude protein and 55-60% TDN. Alfalfa is used extensively in dairy operations where alfalfa helps deliver high protein and calcium needed for heavy milk production. The majority of meat, fiber and hobby goats; however, do not require these high levels of protein. Excess protein can be converted into energy to a certain extent, but this is a very expensive way to provide energy. Most excess protein is ultimately converted into urea and excreted in the urine. In cases of extreme over-feeding of protein, kidney damage can occur. Also, very high quality alfalfa hay can present a frothy bloat hazard. Another disadvantage of alfalfa hay is that the leaves (where the nutritional value is) can be easily lost if hay is too dry or improperly transported or stored. Since alfalfa is relatively high in calcium and low in phosphorus, one must be more mindful of the calcium to phosphorus ratio in the total diet. In most cases, a mineral supplement is essential to make sure that proper balance is maintained in order to prevent urinary stones.

Orchardgrass is a popular cool-season perennial bunchgrass that is grown mainly in the Midwest, Northeast and Northwest. It is tolerant to shade, fairly drought resistant and has moderate winter hardiness; however will not tolerate wet-natured soils. Orchardgrass is well adapted to inter-seeding with legumes such as alfalfa, clovers and lespedeza. Another advantage of orchardgrass is its potential for high yields when well fertilized. Average Orchardgrass hay contains about 9-10% crude protein and 55% TDN on a dry matter basis. Average orchardgrass-alfalfa mix hay will contain roughly 14-17% crude protein and 53-56% TDN on a dry matter basis. The palatability of orchardgrass is good and goats readily consume it. A disadvantage of orchardgrass is that is has relatively poor disease resistance. Also, if it is overgrazed (leaving less than 3-4 inch stubble), root depletion is common and kill off can occur.

There are several different types of ryegrass. Annual (Italian) ryegrass is a popular variety in the Southeast. Even though it is called annual ryegrass it is not a true annual and may come back for two or more years depending on environmental conditions. Annual ryegrass is used primarily for winter grazing. It is easy to establish and works well when overseeded onto dormant Bermudagrass pastures. Ryegrass is high-quality forage with excellent palatability that works extremely well for goats in rotational grazing systems. Due to its high protein and moisture content, it is common for goats to experience loose stools when grazing lush ryegrass. This causes no medical concern, just an esthetic nuisance. One disadvantage of ryegrass is that growth occurs quickly in the spring and it is easy for ryegrass to get over mature. But with strategic rotational grazing and/or hay harvest, ryegrass can be maintained in a high quality vegetative state. Average ryegrass hay contains about 8-9% crude protein and about 60% TDN on a dry matter basis. Obviously, one disadvantage of this forage is that it must be reseeded often, which can become expensive.

Well, actually any one of them can be. It all depends on your individual circumstances. As I emphasized earlier in this article, the nutritional quality of the hay is more important that the actual type of hay. Excellent quality Bermudagrass hay is much better goat feed than poor quality alfalfa hay. And the only way to accurately determine nutritional quality is through a forage analysis test. These tests can be performed by the state-run forage lab or through a privately owned lab. Contact your local Cooperative Extension agent or feed store representative for more information on your options.

While the only truly accurate way to determine good hay quality is through a forage analysis, there are several visual indicators that can help identify bad hay. First of all, presence of excessive stems and seed heads in the bales is often an indicator of lower nutritional quality. As are presence of foreign objects, and unpalatable or poisonous weeds. It also goes without saying that presence of mold is an indicator of poor harvesting and/or storage practices and will result in lower quality hay.

When choosing a forage species to plant, the first consideration needs to be that the forage type you choose is compatible with your soil type, local environmental conditions and management style. Different forages are better suited for different areas. If you try to fight Mother Nature in this, you will lose the battle eventually. I suggest that you contact your local Cooperative Extension agent or National Resource Conservation Service (NRCS) representative for more information on the forage species that are best suited to your area. Once you establish the forage species and variety that performs best in your situation, it is important to test each and every lot of hay cut (a lot is defined as hay from the same field, that has been managed and harvested (within 48 hours) under the same conditions). This will not only allow you to better match your hay to the nutritional needs of your goats (or those of your hay customers), but it will also provide invaluable feedback as to the effectiveness of your forage management and harvesting practices.

If you purchase hay, it is usually more economical to buy locally grown hay when possible. Therefore if Bermudagrass is the prevalent hay type in your area, seek to find the best quality Berudagrass hay available locally instead of importing expensive hay from other regions. Of course, in exceptional cases, it MAY be more economical to import hay. As always, you need to keep your pencil sharp when calculating total feed costs. You can contact your local Cooperative Extension, NRCS, or Dept of Agriculture representative or your local feed store for a list of local hay producers. There are also many hay network lists on the Internet that are worth checking out.

Always ask for a forage test analysis on hay prior to purchase. Many reputable hay producers will gladly provide copies of forage analysis reports. It allows them to highlight the quality of their hay. If the hay producer you deal with has not forage tested in the past, you can offer to split the cost of testing on the hay you are interested in purchasing. Many reputable hay producers will be willing to do this for you. In my opinion, it is much better to do business with a hay producer who is willing to work with you regarding forage testing. It shows that they care about the quality of their hay and your satisfaction. If your local hay source is unwilling to test the hay before you purchase it, be sure to have this forage analysis performed soon after the purchase. Always remember that you often get what you pay for in terms of nutritional quality. Be prepared to pay a bit more for good to excellent quality hay as opposed to “take it as-is” hay. Also remember that the term “horse hay” is meaningless without a forage analysis report to back it up.

In every case, no matter how good your hay is, a supplement will be necessary. The exact type of supplement will depend upon the quality of your hay and how its nutritional composition matches the specific needs of your goats. In some cases, protein and/or energy supplementation will be necessary in addition to mineral/vitamin supplementation. In others, only minerals and vitamins will be needed.

Excellent quality Bermudagrass hay is much better goat feed than poor quality alfalfa hay. And the only way to accurately determine nutritional quality is through a forage analysis test. These tests can be performed by the state-run forage lab or through a privately owned lab.

You know the old saying, the key to a man is through his stomach? Well, I think it’s even truer with our homesteading animals. The key to healthy and productive livestock is in the food you give them, and this all starts with the basics such as the best hay to feed goats.

When I first starting raising goats I thought all hay was alike. Oh, boy, was I ever wrong! There are so many things to know about hay from growing it to cutting or mowing it down. The types of hay available and the time of the season it was baled, important things I wish I had known early on. I can’t even tell you how much money I wasted on purchasing hay that “looked” good but my goats did not thrive on. Hay that came with a hefty price tag but my goats simply refused to eat.

Yes, it can seem overwhelming at first especially when there are so many aspects to what makes a good quality bale of hay. The trick is to know the process of how hay is grown, what all goes into it and, and finally the best way to store it that will keep its value. If you know those things you will not only provide your goats with a healthy diet but you will save your homestead money as well.

Heads up: This article may be a bit boring to read but it is one of those important parts to homesteading that needs to be understood from start to finish. So grab yourself a cup of coffee and maybe a pen and paper for a few notes and let’s dive in.

Goats are a lot like deer and tend to forage more than graze. This means they pick and choose the best parts of a pasture. They like to graze often throughout the day going for weeds and leafy plants before turning to grasses. Contrary to the old saying, a goat will eat anything even a tin can, most goats are in fact, picky eaters. This explains why a goat owner’s pasture is hit and miss as to what is eaten down and what is left standing.

A goat’s rumen is found on the left side of the body. You can more easily remember this by saying Left=Lunch. A large soft and spongy left belly is a sign of a healthy and active rumen.

SLCG PRO TIP: If your goat has a large belly that is hard to the touch that could be the sign of bloat, a deadly condition in goats where gas becomes trapped in the rumen. Walk your goat to help them remove the excess gas and contact your VET immediately for medical assistance.

You may have heard the terms hay and straw used interchangeably in a conversation. Even though they are two different things they are commonly referred to interchangeably. Hay is used for feeding animals because it contains the entire plant; the stem, leaf, and seed head. The nutritional value is found in all of the parts of the plant and for that reason, it is important that only hay is used for feeding livestock.

Straw, on the other hand, is used more in gardening and landscaping because it does not contain the seeds of the plant. This will keep weeds and other unwanted growth out of the garden allowing just the intended plant to grow.

SLCG PRO TIP: Straw is great to use for goat bedding. Since goats will not eat straw because they prefer hay, you can keep bedding intact.

There are three different types of hay, Grass, Legume and Cereal Grain.

Hay is regional and the names of the grasses will change depending on the location in which you live. Where we live, in Northwestern PA, timothy grass hay is the most commonly found along with orchard grass.

Hay is what we call a cut pasture and as stated above, it includes the stem, leaves, and seed head. This is usually cut fresh and bailed; giving it the most nutritional value. The main purpose of hay is to feed grazing animals and for that reason the timing and care at bailing are crucial.

Bailing is simply the process of cutting, raking, combining, and stacking the hay into sections. These can range from small squares to large round bales and the prices of the bale will depend, of course, on size but also on the quality.

The process of cutting, raking, drying, and then baling hay is important to know so you better understand which questions to ask before purchasing hay for your goats.

Hay is first cut (mowed) down and then raked into rows. You may have driven by a pasture of neat rows of cut green grass before. These rows are usually cut in the early morning to allow the dew to help hold the leaves of the hay intact with the stems. The cut hay is then left out to dry usually just that day or a second if needed. It is crucial that excess moisture is removed from the hay to ensure it’s nutritional integrity.

Once the hay has been dried then the baling process can begin. Usually, machines, called balers, will do the baling. They will gather up the hay, bundle it together, tie it with string also known as baling twine and finally toss it into a hay trailer or back onto the grass to be gathered up later.

Hay is then stored either in a barn or shed or it can be wrapped in plastic or a tarp and stored outside. This will all depend on the weather where you live. The key is to keep the hay dry to again ensure the quality of the hay is left intact preserving its nutritional value for your animals.

SLCG PRO TIP: Hay must be kept out of the rain to deter spoiling of the hay bale. Moldy hay can not only make your goats sick but even, in some cases, kill so being sure your bales are stored correctly is a crucial part of a healthy herd.

READ: THE BEST HAY FEEDERS OPTIONS FOR GOATS

First cut hay is the first time the pasture is cut down for baling that season. This is the early spring cutting and tends to be the coarsest of the hay cuttings because of the thicker stems. First cut hay also has the most weeds and the lowest protein of the common cuts. For this reason, the price for first cut hay will be lower than later cuts.

Second cut hay is next and has a higher protein and nutritional value than first cut and also tends to contain fewer weeds. Second cut hay usually has a softer feel to it and looks greener than first cut. The smell too is more fragrant and actually smells like fresh-cut grass. This cut of hay will be more expensive because of the quality and nutritional levels found in the bales.

It is also a bit hard to come by since the amount of second cut hay all depends on the weather. Hay cannot be cut or mowed in the rain since it needs to be dried prior to baling. A rainy season usually means less hay and that can drive the price of second cut pretty high.

We prefer to feed second cut to our goats for reasons I will get into later.

Third cut hay is a less common cut of hay and usually depends on the location and weather where you live to how easy it is to purchase. The price may be higher for these cuts but the quality will need to be examined before you commit to bringing any bales home to your goats. Be sure these cuts still include the maturity of growth so you are getting the best quality and protein for your goats. If cut too quickly these bales will not include the full plant, meaning the stem and leaves, which may have your animals missing out on important nutrients.

SLCG PRO TIP: As with any cut of hay, the amount of dust is also important to consider. Respiratory illness can be common in some animals like horses and goats for example. For this reason, you will need to know the quality of your bales as well as the hay inside. We like to test a bale at home prior to purchasing large amounts for our animals.

Feeding goats can be a bit tricky because they have what is known as a complex digestive system. But don’t let this scare you, I just want you to be aware before you begin so you can better understand how to support your goats in the healthiest way.

Let’s break down a goat’s diet so you can see just why we want to focus on hay from the very beginning.

As the graph above shows, hay takes up half of a goats daily diet. If you do not have access to pasture for your goats, then the grass hay percentage is going to be a bit higher than the graph above.

Since the largest part of a goat’s diet is grassy hay, that is where we are going to put our focus today, in particular, the first and second cuts. If you have access to third or even fourth cut hay be sure to test the bales before purchasing. Check the size of the stem and the quality of the nutritional value of the hay. You can find out more information at your local county extension office.

SLCG PRO TIP: Did you know that most goats can live their entire life without any supplemental grain? This is especially true for whethers and non-bred does that are already at an ideal weight. This is why the quality of your goat’s hay is so important. Remember to always make any changes in diet gradually so as not to upset the balance of your goat’s rumen.

Hay is used as animal fodder, meaning feed for large livestock animals. This will include cattle, horses, goats, llamas, alpacas, and sheep. It is also used for smaller animals such as rabbits. It is important to know the best hay for your specific animals in order to ensure their overall health, growth, and milk production.

Different livestock requires different types of hay and knowing the difference will help you to give better feed to your animals. Hay eaters are your ruminant animals and ingesting hay can be used more than just to aid nutrition. Hay, in goats, for example, will help them to stay warmer in the winter. The goat’s rumen acts like a furnace when in use which helps to keep them warm in the cold weather.

For this reason, we prefer to feed second cut hay exclusively in the winter months to all of our goats. Since our goats prefer the second cut hay they will eat more that will, in turn, keep their rumens active giving them a bit more protection when those frigid wind chills hit.

Basically, there are three types of goats. Dairy goats, meat goats, and goats strictly for pets or work. Knowing the main purpose of your goats will better help you to choose the best hay and feed.

Hay is particularly important if milk production is the main purpose of your goats. The type of hay will directly affect the amount and quality of milk along with the percentages of butterfat found within. For that reason, Alfalfa hay is a great choice because of it’s higher protein amounts.

READ: DAIRY GOAT BREEDS – CHOOSING THE BEST FOR YOUR FARM

Unfortunately, not all regions have access to alfalfa hay. Luckily there are a few options to help remedy this.

If you live in a region like we do that does not have a large supply of alfalfa hay then you may want to supplement your goats to help.

Alfalfa Pellets

Alfalfa pellets are a great option to offer to your goats that will give them a good supply of protein. You can offer them free choice or mix them in with their grain. Since purchasing pellets can be a bit expensive online I suggest checking with your local feed mill for a more affordable option. Be sure to have a secure way to store this option of livestock feed so pests do not have access to it.

Chaffhaye

Chaffhaye is premium bagged, Non-GMO Alfalfa. It is our preferred method of feeding alfalfa to our herd. This product is manufactured in Texas but more and more states are carrying it as well. Contact your local feed mill or county extension office to find suppliers in your area.

Chaffhaye is a moist slightly ground alfalfa hay that is compacted into bags. Once opened you will need to store it in a container that will help to keep the air out. Do not store in sunlight or allow it to get warm or the contents will mold. To know if it is good go by the smell. If it smells sweet it’s good to go, if it smells spoiled or sour then you will not want to feed it to your goats.

SLCG PRO TIP: Always check your bags of Chaffhaye before purchasing. If the bag is torn that means air has entered the bag and will result in a dried out Chaffhaye. The contents must be moist so the integrity of the bag is important. Do not hesitate to call the supplier and ask for a replacement if a bag is found open or damaged. They should replace it without question.

Our goats are given Chaffhaye year round and they really love the taste of it. Since feeding Chaffhaye I have found a much healthier and robust herd that is better able to fight off worms on their own which is commonly found in our very wet climates.

It is always best to promote health every day through diet rather than being forced to treat sick animals.

For our dairy goats, we prefer to feed second cut hay. This hay is richer and more nutrient-dense that supports the high energy needed for milk production. Second cut is also good to give to any goats that are bred. Again encouraging nutrients to support the energy needed by a bred goat.

The purpose of a meat goat is to fill the freezer and for that reason, you will want to encourage healthy weight gain in your meat goats. More often than not first cut will work just fine in this area but if you find your goats on the low end of the weight scale you may want to introduce second cut hay. Since most goats prefer the second cut to first cut hay this will encourage them to eat more and help them to establish a better weight.

More often than not most meat goats will thrive on first cut hay as long as the quality is good and the nutrients are intact.

Just like with meat goats your goal is simply to make sure your animals are in optimal health. More often than not this can be easily done with first cut hay. Again, if you see your goats are on the lighter side you may want to have a few bales of second cut around. You can either offer second cut exclusively or add it to your first cut to help promote eating.

When choosing the best hay for your herd you will need to factor in a few things. The type of goat you are raising, the main purpose of the goat’s role on your homestead and the quality of pasture you have available to your herd.

Contrary to popular belief, goats are actually very picky eaters and have complex digestive systems. Wethers (neutered males) have different dietary needs than does (females). Proper feeding is of utmost importance as feeding errors account for a large percentage of goat disease and death.

Wethers: We recommend good quality orchard grass hay. If you feed a mixed hay of orchard grass and alfalfa, alfalfa should not exceed 10% as alfalfa is thought to contribute to the potential for urinary calculi (blocking). Grain is also thought to be a major contributor to urinary calculi so we recommend that wethers not receive any grain, goat chow, or treats with grain products in them. This includes bread, crackers, etc.

Does:  We recommend good quality orchard grass hay or a 50/50 mix of orchard grass and alfalfa. Alfalfa is not a health concern for does but we do not recommend a 100% alfalfa diet.

Note: If you are located in Western Washington, we strongly recommend Eastern Washington hay. Hay grown locally in Western WA does not provide the correct nutrients necessary for goats.

Timothy hay is also an option for both wethers and does. However, in our experience, it tends to have more stems and we see more hay waste when feeding timothy hay.

In winter months, goats should always have hay available to them in their shelter. Even if there is lots of browse left in their pasture, winter browse does not contain enough nutrients to sustain goats for the long winter months. Goats tend to avoid leaving their shelter during rainy weather so it’s important that they have access to hay where they will likely be spending most of their time. On cold nights they will munch on their hay throughout the night and generate their own heat to stay warm.

Salt is another important aspect to a goat’s diet, especially for wethers (neutered males). Loose mineralized salt is preferable over a traditional salt block and should be always be available to the goats. Offering both is a great option as well. We also recommend that goats have access to baking soda which can help aid digestion.

Goats are natural browsers and their ideal home has a pasture with a variety of grass, woody plants and weeds. Blackberry, salmonberry as well as alder, fir and maple trees are some of their favorites.

CAUTION: It is very important to understand the plants that are in your goats pasture and along its outer fence line as there are many ornamental plants which are very poisonous to goats. In many cases, it can take only a few leaves, fresh or dry, to fatally poison a goat. Unfortunately, these ornamental plants taste good to goats so they do not have any innate sense that they are deadly toxic to them. See our Poisonous Plants page for more information.